A beguiling mix of arts, gastronomy, cobbled streets and cotton candy-coloured sunsets await in Les Baux-de-Provence in Les Alpilles in the heart of Provence, says Janine Marsh.
South of Avignon, former home to the Popes, and a short journey from the enchanting town of Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, take the winding roads that wriggle between the rocky Alpilles mountain chain until you reach a secret village – Les Baux-de-Provence. A classified Plus Beaux Village (officially one of the prettiest villages in France), this is one of Provence’s most beautiful hilltop villages. Carved into an arid white rocky plateau 245 m above sea level, the small town is home to some twenty historic monuments dotted around its cobbled, car-free streets.
The village perches below the great limestone outcrop upon which the lords of Baux built their vast chateau, perfectly summed up in the words of a song by Italian folk rock singer-songwriter Angelo Branduardi: ‘Dans son château le Seigneur des Baux prend la pluie au visage’ – In his chateau, the Lord of Baux takes the rain in his face.
Climb to the highest point of this limestone ridge, and you’ll see what inspired the words – it’s like you’re at the top of the world and sat in the clouds though to be fair, rain is rare here in this sun-kissed part of France. The 10th-century chateau was partly dug into the rock and is now in ruins, but the view from the ramparts is breath-taking. I’d go so far as to say that the view from Les Baux is one of the best in Provence, overlooking Arles and the Camargue, the shimmering countryside reminiscent of Tuscany, and on a clear day, you can see all the way to the Mediterranean Sea some 20 miles away. If you look hard, you may spot wild birds of prey, including the Bonelli’s Eagle and, at dusk, Eagle Owls.
The village and its diverse architectural heritage, a sprinkling of Renaissance and a Soupçon of medieval, is a charming mix of narrow streets, gift and craft shops, bars and restaurants, all determined to delay you. There’s a Romanesque church and a small museum dedicated to painter Yves Brayer, and another museum is dedicated to the Santons of Provence, a regional Christmas tradition. A short walk from the village will bring you to one of the most incredible art venues in Europe, the Carrières de Lumières, the Quarry of Lights, where you are immersed in a shower of digital images. It’s without doubt one of the greatest sound and light shows in the world. Set in an abandoned quarry inside a mountain, a series of huge ‘rooms’ carved from the rock feature different artists every year, from Van Gogh to Monet.
This is a place to relax, explore and discover what makes this area the soul of Provence. There are hidden gems like the medieval pavillon of Queen Jeanne, known as the Temple of Love, which Provencal poet and writer Frederic Mistral loved so much he chose it as the design for his own tomb. You can explore the artisan vineyards on the Alpilles wine route, including one that King Francis 1st of France gave to his daughter, it remained in the family for four centuries. Visit the lavender distilleries, the ancient towns or head to the beaches for a day out.
Tourism Les-Baux-de-Provence: lesbauxdeprovence.com
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