Vallée de la Gastronomie France

Janine Marsh undertakes a gastronomic odyssey from the north to the south of France, following the route of the Vallée de la Gastronomie….

Travelling the 620km route which follows a 1000-year-old trade route through France, straddling several departments, and stopping off at historic towns, enchanting villages, verdant vineyards, and ancient cities, there was so much to see, do, eat and drink, I have split the tale of my mouth-watering meander from Burgundy to the Mediterranean Sea into two equally delicious parts!

You can read about the southern section of my journey here including Aix-en-Provence, Cassis and Marseille. In the north, this epic-urean route starts in Dijon, capital of Burgundy, and you would be hard pushed to find a more delicious city. You can read more about Dijon and its gastronomic excellence here.

I did the whole journey by rail, stopping off along the route of the Vallee de la Gastronomie, visiting enchanting towns, vineyards, farms, dining at the most amazing restaurants, wine tasting and meeting artisans, wine makers and chefs with huge passion for producing the greatest food and wine you’ll ever experience. This is just a taster of the hundreds of experiences available, all in English (and French), and all welcoming visitors. Find out more on the website: valleedelagastronomie

Chalon-sur-Saône – wine country…

Around 40km south of Dijon brings you to the town of Chalon-sur-Saône – on the doorstep of the great vineyards of Mercurey, which takes its name from a temple built here by the Romans in tribute to the God Mercury. Mercurey’s wines charters go back almost 1500 years, to 557 AD, and this area is considered the “wine capital” of Burgundy, and one of its foremost appellations. But enough superlatives – what’s the wine like? Well head to the 17^th century Château de Chamirey, in the heart of the Mercurey vineyards for a delicious tasting and to find out more about the vines.

I met with the chateau’s owner Amaury Devillard who explained that of the 37 hectares under the Chateau de Chamirey label, 15 of them are premier Cru, reflecting the diverse soils and microclimates within the Mercurey appellation. Sipping a superb fruity red and a fresh peachy white as we looked out over the countryside at a mosaic of vineyards with eagles flying overhead and wild birds singing joyfully, brought one of those memorable moments of pure happiness. We could see Mont Blanc in the distance (a sign of bad weather apparently).

“It’s in the blood. We make wine, we drink it, we talk about it all the time” says this passionate wine marker. “A good bottle of wine is an empty bottle.”

Leave the vineyards to take a wander in Chalon-sur-Saône where Joseph Nicéphore-Niépce was born and where a museum is dedicated to him. You might not know his name, but his legacy has left a huge impact. Born in 1765, he is known as the “father of photography” and was the first to create a permanent photographic image. And the beautiful 11^th century cloisters of the Cathedral are a lovely place to relax and enjoy the artworks. The cloisters been through several transformations, houses were once built in the centre, and at one time a vinegar factory was set up in the buildings. Head to the buzzing bar and café-lined Place St Vincent, named after the Patron Saint of Wine, to enjoy a local tipple. Read more about the town here: achalon.com/en

Where to stay: Le Saint Georges hotel is cosy, comfy and conveniently for rail travellers, next to the train station.

Tournus – a hidden gem

30km on, another must-visit, is the lovely town of Tournus, along the banks of the Saone River, though it is just 35km from the great abbey of Cluny. If you dream of stumbling on a little place with fabulous food, wonderful wines and a warm welcome, then Tournus is it.

Burgundy is possibly the stomach of France and in Tournus, good restaurants abound, but three stand out for their truly superb dishes. Head a little out of town to Le Relais d’Ozenay of chef Florian Giraud. It’s a beautifully decorated restaurant in a glorious part of the countryside. Chef Giraud knows all his suppliers by name, locals who have a passion for their produce. He’s typical of the hundreds and hundreds of artisans whose restaurants, farms, wine and beer chocolate and more, make up your guides and introducers to taste sensations along the route of the Vallée de la Gastronomie.

In the centre of town there are two Michelin starred restaurants: Greuze headed up by chef Yohann Chapuis, and the magnificent Aux Terrasses run by chef Jean-Michel Carrette. And get acquainted with the terrific local wines at the cave des Vignerons de Mancey. Tournus deserves much more attention, read about the incredible ancient hospital, the chefs and charms of this ancient town: Secret France – Tournus

Where to stay: You’re spoiled for choice for fabulous hotels here – I stayed at the gorgeous Hotel les 7 Fontaines which has a spa and fabulous wine tasting cellar.

Mâcon – memorable for food and wine

Mâcon is a wine town and the gateway to the vineyards of southern Burgundy. The town pays tribute to the history of the local wine production with the opening this year of the Cité des Climats et Vins de Bourgogne wine museum and tasting venue on the banks of the River Saône. After an immersive, sensory trail in which you’ll discover all about the viticulture of Burgundy, head to the fabulous tasting bar. See the website for details plus guided tours, events and workshops.

Who can resist a chance to learn to cook Burgundian style? Certainly not me, so I headed to the Maison des Ateliers to take a half day class in a gorgeous mansion house which is also where Fabrice Sommier, one of France’s most famous sommeliers and a Maitre Ouvrier de France, hosts wine classes.

I learned how to cook a classic volaille à la crème (chicken in cream sauce). I was frankly astonished at how good my cooking is (ok – I did have help and patient guidance from chef Salome). I picked up heaps of neat tips and tricks, and took home a lasting souvenir – the ability to produce a dish like a top chef.

In Mâcon, you must visit a patisserie or boulangerie and have a nibble on a Gaufrette Mâconnaise. Made in Mâcon since the middle ages these delicious cigar-shaped biscuits were abandoned for decades until they were resurrected by Monsieur Claude Poissonnet, Grand Master of the Brotherhood of the Gaufrette Mâconnaise.

Dine at: La DaMa go for the warm and genuine welcome and the excellent food (a fusion of Italian and French) and great wines.

Stay at: L’hôtel Panorama Head to the rooftop bar for aperitifs and fabulous views.

Village Blanc – an entire foodie village in Vonnas

Crossing into Rhone Alpes, and the Ain department, I stopped off at Village Blanc, the concept of legendary chef Georges Blanc. It includes two restaurants, a hotel and holiday residence, foodie shops including a wine store, butchers, tableware store, boulangerie, chocolaterie, and patisserie with some of the most amazing cakes I’ve ever tasted (and I take my cake tasting duties seriously!). There is also his internationally famous L’Esprit Blanc restaurant which has one of the greatest restaurant wine cellars in the world, as well as the charming and scrumptious Ancienne Auberge. If you love food – then Village Blanc in Vonnas is an absolute must – a unique and utterly scrumptious part of France.

Beaujolais is not at all nouveau

30km south of Vonnas, my next stop was Beaujolais. This lovely, truly lovely, part of France has a timeless beauty and relaxed vibe, and deserves a whole article to itself which you can read in the The Good Life France Magazine (Spring 2024 – subscribe here for free).

Beaujolais Nouveau is known around the world, but if you think that’s all this wine region has to offer – then you’ll need to un-think that because I promise you the wines are not just of the nouveau kind, they are exquisite, rich ruby reds, and crisp whites, an effervescent crémant that puts sparkles in your eyes and if you like wine – you will love Beaujolais wines. And this region is home to what I am sure must be the best wine museum in the world which also has a stunning tasting bar – the Hameau Duboeuf.

And just down the road from here you can taste the wines of Maison Jean Loron, one of the oldest and largest wine-growing owners in southern Burgundy. Seriously some of the best wines I’ve ever tasted, I managed to lug several bottles home in my luggage which almost broke me, but it was worth it!

Follow the route des Crêtes in Beaujolais and the stunning wine route des vins du Beaujolais through tiny villages like Oingt, a plus beaux village de France, and beautiful Theizé in the heart of the “Pierres Dorées” which refers to the golden stone that many buildings are made from, and which gives the villages a special glow. And don’t miss a visit to the historic town of Villefranche-sur-Saône where you can take an audio guide of the hidden treasures…

Dine at: La Feuillée a typical Beaujolais bistrot where the locals gather for the tastiest of grub, a glass of wine and a good dollop of bonhomie.

Stay at: Les Maritonnes Parc & Vignoble, Romaneche-Thorins, a Georges Blanc owned hotel with a fabulous restaurant.