What a wonderful moment it is when you happen upon a French seaside gem, with long sandy beaches, a sweeping promenade, sunny pavement cafés and even a spa. Bénodet in Brittany has everything you’d hope for in a small seaside resort, including an understated elegance that is fabulously French says Annaliza Davis as she explores its charms.
This resort in Finistère, western Brittany offers crystal-clear waters and gently lapping waves, a sheltered beach that invites you to while away the hours, and a wide esplanade framed by statuesque pine trees. Besides these obvious charms, Bénodet has a chic, south-of-France feel that instantly switches you into holiday mode the moment you arrive.
Previously a fishing village, Bénodet’s destiny changed around 1865 when rail links and better roads brought its charms to the notice of day-trippers and holiday-makers. It soon evolved into a refined seaside resort, complete with manor houses, coastal villas and stylish hotels to accommodate tourists, yachtsmen and countless artists inspired by the scenery. Since that early boom, the town has developed to become a truly excellent holiday destination.
Seaview relaxation
Picture yourself in a sea view room, gazing over the ocean as you enjoy a leisurely breakfast, then strolling from your hotel to the neighbouring spa for a morning of pampering and swimming. The Relais Thalasso is part of a national chain of spas, whose swimming pools and treatments focus on the health benefits of seawater (thalassotherapy). As well as a 30°C saltwater pool, bubble jets, steam room and two saunas, this particular spa offers an aromatherapy shower, sea view gym and a sunroom with outdoor decking where you can unwind watching the ocean.
Guests at the Hotel Kastel next door enjoy free access to the pool, but the experience is even better if you treat yourself to some of the spa treatments: an almond-oil Breizhfornien massage, a facial, seaweed wrap or a Watsu seawater shiatsu massage. If you’re staying elsewhere, booking a thalassotherapy treatment also grants you access to the spa centre, so you’re almost obliged to make the most of all the facilities and truly unwind!
Great for families
This resort is equally fabulous if you’re bringing youngsters. Firstly, the promenade is wide and level, with a flat surface that’s great for pushchairs and strollers, so you can easily walk for an hour along the seafront. The main beach, Plage du Trez, is a long stretch of golden sand with the advantage of being mostly sheltered from the breeze. The beach itself leads gradually into the water, so even toddlers can make the most of gently lapping waves while they paddle. There are other beaches, too, including the smaller cove of Saint-Gilles and Le Letty further east, where the sandbank protects the beach from the ocean, forming a lagoon-like area.
Should the weather prove less than ideal, you have an ace up your sleeve thanks to the cinema that is right in the centre of town, on the seafront. Cinémarine has two cinema rooms with a total of 420 seats, and shows the latest releases as well as themed screenings throughout the year. That’s a great option for a night out or an alternative to the beach on a drizzly day!
Walking, cycling and exploring
The GR®34 (grandes randonnées: France’s network of walks, created in 1971) is also known as the Customs Officers’ Trail, as it was once patrolled by officers looking for smugglers coming in along the shore. This fantastic, free-access coastal path follows the entire coast of Brittany for over 2,000km offering some of the most breath-taking views you could wish for, and the section either side of Bénodet is one of the most photogenic.
If you walk along the seafront promenade west towards the old port and continue to follow the coast, you can walk up to the iconic Cornouaille Bridge that spans the River Odet. From this height of 70 metres, you are rewarded with unbeatable views of the marina, the town below and the surrounding woodlands. Cross the bridge and follow the path down to the charming harbour of Sainte-Marine, which faces Bénodet. You can stop for refreshment here before heading back or, from April to late September, you can catch the water taxi known as Le P’tit Bac that will take you back to Bénodet.
Walkers and hikers are spoilt for choice when it comes to trails around Bénodet, and you can find out more information from the Tourist Office (benodet.fr/en) or the Breton Riviera (rivierabrettone.co.uk) website.
Out on the water
Bénodet sits where the River Odet meets the ocean, and indeed its name comes from the Breton for ‘head of the Odet’. One of France’s most beautiful rivers, the Odet leads north to the cathedral city of Quimper, a route that is lined with graceful villas and châteaux. With Vedettes de l’Odet, you can take a trip along this stretch of the river, gliding along and watching the scenery as you listen to the commentary (also in English) giving details on the stately homes and even pointing out where Churchill once stayed, painting landscapes!
For a completely different experience, take a boat trip to the nearby Glénan Islands, known as Brittany’s Caribbean, an archipelago of turquoise waters and sandy beaches perfect for snorkelling, sunbathing and lazing around.
However you explore Bénodet, you can’t help admiring the various sailboats in the vast marina, so if you want to learn more about the town’s yachting and maritime history, head to the Musée du Bord de Mer near the Tourist Office. Panels are currently in French (plans are underway for English translations!) but all the displays are beautiful and informative, including a life-size replica of the striped beach huts that once lined the front.
Different cultural experiences
One of the unexpected aspects of Bénodet is its Casino, which is another reason for the resort’s south-of-France feel. Located on the seafront near the Thalasso Spa, you could easily walk past the entrance without realising, but Casino Barrière is open all year round, from 10am to 2am, extending to 4am on Fridays and Saturdays. Far from intimidating and with no formal dress code, this casino is open to adults with a valid ID. You’ll find the latest digital-technology games, slot machines and classics such as roulette and poker, and a top prize of over 500,000 euros. They also put on shows and concerts, or you can just pop in for a coffee like the locals.
Seaside dining
Whatever the time of day, there’s always a perfect spot for people-watching and sea-gazing and eating Breton crêpes in Bénodet. Right by the beach, the Sans Souci bar and restaurant is a must, open from 9am to 11pm with a varied, affordable menu and unbeatable sea views. A little further along the promenade, L’Alhambra is an iconic circular restaurant with incredible views and exquisite dishes to match (lunch and dinner). And if you head to the Vieux Port, the extended pavement areas are perfect for apéritifs and dinner in the evening sunshine, whiling away the hours and admiring the yachts.
A true Breton gem
By now, you’ll have realised that Bénodet is a real gem: big enough to offer something for everyone, yet small enough to feel that it’s your own private haven. Even off-season it’s a wonderful place to explore and to make great memories. A trip to Bénodet is always a bonne idée!
Find more information at benodet.fr/en
By Annaliza Davis – an editor, translator and writer. She lives in Brittany after falling in love with the area on a school exchange and loves to explore the coast with her scruffy dog Mimi!
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