If you’re looking to escape to an authentic, unspoilt part of France, it’s hard to beat inland Brittany, which is renowned for its rich history. Close to the beaches of Locmariaquer and Lamor Baden, the historic market town of Guéméné-sur-Scorff in Morbihan is a great example of why people who discover Brittany return time and again: from the wonderful sea food, to ancient cultural treasures, hundreds of islands to explore and sandy beaches, this little-known destination packs a big punch…
Next thing you know, you can’t leave!
Vancouver-based Fiona Ahrens loves the Celtic heritage, music, sailing events and character of Brittany and fell head over heels for the medieval town of Guéméné.
“In 2008, I bought an unloved wreck of a building,” she explains. “I’m not saying it was beyond hope, but the garden level of this adorable cottage originally had a mud floor and was used to house goats in the winter! It became a haven, a place to restore my peace of mind; I spent years renovating it sympathetically, preserving the best of its original stone walls and gorgeous chestnut floors. Once it was fully restored, I started to rent it out as holiday accommodation, and I love sharing the experience of French village life with other like-minded folks.”
Romantic stone cottage holiday rental in Morbihan
“The Petit Guéméne Gîte is far from a bland, minimalist holiday let,” smiles Fiona. “It is happily filled with home comforts and vintage charm. Along with the exposed stone walls and wooden beams, there’s a country-style kitchen, timber floors, an old fireplace, a bathtub and all the plump cushions and cosy bedding you need to really relax. Guests say that the moment you walk in, you feel as if you can let it all go and start to unwind. That’s certainly how I feel.”
From the outside, this stone cottage looks discreet and understated, yet inside it feels light and surprisingly spacious, spread over three storeys and ready to accommodate up to six guests. To the rear of the property, there is also a private walled garden, so you can use the outdoor space for an al fresco breakfast, evening apéritifs or a spot of sunbathing while you read.
Guéméné: bursting with character
In the morning stroll to the bakery on the edge of town, where the boulanger makes wonderful flaky croissants using only the best Breton butter (slightly salted, of course!). You’re almost duty-bound to sample some of the other pastries during your stay like the famous Breton kouign amman. And if you really want to immerse yourself in local culture, you’ll get into the habit of buying a crispy baguette every day. Depending on your mood, your fresh bread can accompany your evening meal or be savoured at lunchtime, smothered with one of those fabulous French cheeses or a little smoked salmon, and why not a fresh mixed salade with some French vinaigrette? And don’t miss the award-winning Andouille that the town is famous for – people come from far and near for this unique sausage speciality from the artisan manufacturer.
“If you fancy sampling some true Breton specialities,” adds Fiona, “Guéméné has several great restaurants including Crêperie Rohan, where they serve paper-thin pancakes and savoury galettes that are so particular to this region, including crêpes Saint-Jacques which feature succulent scallops! And ‘Le 1931, Chez Thomas’ serves traditional French cuisine using local ingredients (including the Guéméné Andoouille) – a true taste of Brittany.”
A true heritage town
Guémené-sur-Scorff dates back to 1050. Its name comes from the River Scorff, which runs alongside, plus the family that left the biggest mark on the town. They were called Rohan-Guémené, one of the most prestigious families in France, and successive generations left a legacy that can be seen all around. The castle ruins are open to visitors and there’s also a museum, housed in the Tourist Information bureau, in which you can visit The Queen’s Baths – a rare medieval bath house.
Further afield
Guéméné-sur-Scorff sits in the historic Pays de Roi Morvan, the ancient land of the Breton kings. The neighbouring villages are also bursting with heritage treasures, including churches from the 1200s or 1300s and characterful homes that date back to medieval times. There’s a tourist office in the village where you get a map of the historic villages sites and find out what’s on – summer is especially vibrant with a calendar full of fetes and festivals.
And Carnac is a must-see – around three thousand standing stones, called menhirs in French, stretch in alignments for several kilometres. It’s an incredible experience to see stones that are older than Stonehenge, put here by Neolithic settlers some 6,000 years ago.
“It’s a great location for discovering authentic French heritage,” says Fiona. “There are quaint villages, local markets, which happen on different days of the week – in Guéméné it’s on Thursday. Most of them finish at lunchtime, so you can spend your morning browsing market stalls to pick up a tasty local treat to take back for lunch, and in summer there are also marchés nocturnes, which run from late afternoon through the twilight, and are a lovely way to spend your evening.”
Experience a day in the life
Imagine waking up naturally to a peaceful morning in France, throwing back the traditional wooden shutters and hearing the gentle sound of birdsong and the river in the distance. After a leisurely walk to pick up your favourite pastry from the boulangerie, relax in the quiet, walled garden before heading out to discover some of Brittany’s best heritage towns, like Pont Aven, a favourite of the Impressionists for its picture-postcard pretty harbour and cobbled streets.
Or nearby Vannes with its half-timbered houses and castle once owned by the Dukes of Brittany. Or even head to one of the fabulous sandy beaches and famous oyster farms that are just 45 minutes’ drive away.
After your day’s adventures, enjoy the last rays of the sun on one of the private patios with a glass of a good French wine or local cider before deciding what to do for dinner. This is the perfect place for taking your time, recharging your energy and savouring the very best of Brittany.
To find out more and to book your own escape in the Petit Gîte de Guéméné, head to brittany-escapes.com
