Montreuil-sur-Mer (35 miles from Calais), is overflowing with timeless Gallic charm and festooned with flowery window boxes. Its cobbled streets are lined with magnificent monuments and the views from the ancient ramparts are spectacular. The town makes for a great day trip from Calais, weekend destination, or overnight stay if you’re travelling to or from Calais says Janine Marsh who lives nearby.
What to see and do in Montreuil-sur-Mer
Montreuil-sur-Mer in Pas-de-Calais, northern France, is in fact no longer on the sea as the name implies, the tide went out several centuries ago and never came back after the River Canche narrowed. In the 10th century it became an important harbour town that boasted the first royal port of the ruling family of the Capets, which made it prosperous enough to have eight churches and four times the number of residents as it does now.
Atop a hill encircled by ramparts, Montreuil-sur-Mer is today a picture postcard pretty little town, filled with ancient buildings – higgledy piggledy houses, elegant mansions and cobblestone squares.
Over the centuries, the town has had its fair share of dramatic events. They include a serious earthquake in 1467, invasion by the armies of Emperor Charles V in 1537 and a failed siege by the army of Henry VIII of England in 1544 (he was more successful down the road in Boulogne-sur-Mer). Napoleon Bonaparte posted thousands of troops here while he toyed with the idea of invading England by sending his army across the Channel on rafts carried by hot air balloons. More recently the town acted as headquarters for General Haig during World War I, and a statue of him sat astride a horse sits before the town’s Belle Epoque style theatre (a former grain exchange). It was designed by Paul Landowski (whose best-known work is Christ the Redeemer in Rio de Janeiro).
Wander Montreuil’s 3km long ramparts built by Sébastien Le Prestre de Vauban, Louis XIV’s genius military engineer, when he organised the fortification of northern France during the 17th century. On a sunny day you can see for miles over the stunning countryside of the Seven Valleys, and easily spot the monumental Chartreuse de Neuville at the foot of the ramparts, the 700-year-old Charterhouse, founded in 1324, is well worth a detour.
For a small fee you can visit the citadel, one of the first bastioned citadels built in France, commissioned by Charles IX in 1567, nicknamed by some “the Carcassonne of the north.” There are ancient buildings, a small museum and, the citadel is a refuge for rare and endangered species of bats. In the grounds of the Citadel is “Queen Berthe’s Tower” allegedly where King Philip I locked his wife up in the 11th century to force her to give him a divorce after he fell for another woman.
The town has long enchanted visitors, including Irish writer Laurence Sterne who stayed here whilst writing his famous book “A Sentimental Journey” published in 1768; my dad’s favourite jockey – the late, great Lester Piggot; and the town’s favourite writer – Victor Hugo who based much of his book Les Misérables on people he met and his experiences in the town when visiting with his mistress in 1837. And if you’re here in late July/early August, don’t miss the local production of Les Misérables performed by some 500 locals (accompanied by horses and cannons) on the ramparts at night!
In Place Darnetal, a pretty square built over the site of the former Notre-Dame church, the chocolate boutique, complete with chandelier, is hard to ignore with its handmade chocolates tempting you from the windows. Walk to the left and you’ll arrive in Place Gambetta lined with restaurants, bars and churches, including the 12th century Abbey Saint-Saulve. Once an immense building, much of it has been destroyed over the years, but what remains is impressive with a magnificent Flamboyant nave. Close by is the 12th century Chapelle Saint-Nicolas de l’hôtel-Dieu, rebuilt in the 19th century by Clovis Normand (born in nearby Hesdin), a pupil of Viollet le Duc (who restored Notre-Dame de Paris, and Carcassonne).
Browse the boutiques, pop into Boulangerie Gremont (a contender for best baker in France), for a slice or several of one of their enormous Jean Valjean loaves – a nod to Victor Hugo’s Les Mis hero Jean Valjean, and to Fromagerie Caseus, a tourist attraction in its own right. This cheese shop attracts cheese lovers from far and wide with plenty of local specialities from stinky Maroilles to sublime Sire de Créquy.
The large central square, named after General de Gaulle is lined with bars, restaurants and shops. On a Saturday morning it bursts into life as the weekly market lures shoppers from all over the area. There are so many bars, restaurants and cafés here that the town calls itself a “Destination Gastronimique.” Enjoy Michelin-starred dishes at La Grenouillère restaurant of Alexandre Gauthier, a snack from Le Pot du Clape soup bar on the pretty little rue du Clape-en-Bas, steak-frites at Bistronome, flammekueche at Caveau, or simply sit at a tea shop of which there are several, or a terraced café with a glass of whatever you fancy watching the world go by – Le Douglas on the main square is very popular with locals for the cocktails, live bands and great snack food.
Spend a day in Montreuil-sur-Mer – or longer, this town has all you need for a fabulously indulgent and relaxing time.
Janine Marsh is the author of several internationally best-selling books about France. Her latest book How to be French – a celebration of the French lifestyle and art de vivre, is out now – a look at the French way of life. Find all books on her website janinemarsh.com
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