Love the idea of a snowy break in the French Alps but don’t want to ski? Amy Macpherson checks out the cool credentials of a no-ski wintry weekend in Annecy Mountains.
From the balcony of my room in Hotel & Spa Saint-Alban in La Clusaz, positioned on a slight hill overlooking the pretty village centre and snow-covered slopes, I could tell the conditions were perfect for skiers. The problem was, I can’t ski, and I’m not keen to learn! But a snowy holiday in the Annecy Mountains offers much more than ski slopes.
On the surface, La Clusaz may seem just like any other ski resort. Surrounded by the limestone peaks of five mountain areas of the Aravis, there are enough slopes of varying degrees of difficulty to suit every level of downhill skiing and plenty of trails for the Nordic skiers too. The centre of town features a cluster of alpine houses, boutique guesthouses, hotels, sport shops, restaurants, grocery stores and a church, whose steeple points towards the sky like a pin dropped on a map. It’s very beautiful – but what’s a non-skier do in the mountains surrounded by snow?
Culture and cheese
On the edge of town, wedged in the valley along the Nom stream, Le Hameau des Alpes Museum, in a traditional mountain hut hosts exhibitions dedicated to the history of skiing in the French Alps, and the production of Reblochon, the delectable regional cheese. It’s a fascinating look at how the sport developed from a form of transport in the early 20th century, to a popular tourist activity only a couple of decades later.
Hungry for a taste of the real deal Reblochon after my visit, I hopped on the easy-to-use local shuttle bus and headed to nearby Manigod to visit the workshop of Artisan Fromager, Joseph Paccard (reblohon-paccard.fr) for a cheesemaking tour and tasting. Even if you don’t like cheese, the view from the balcony of the building is worth the trip.
Soft and creamy Reblochon has a long history. During the 14th century, landowners would tax the mountain farmers according to the amount of milk their herds produced. Canny farmers didn’t fully milk the cows until after the landowner had measured the yield. The milk that remains is much richer and makes for the creamy taste of Reblochon. This area produces a whopping 6 million rounds of Reblochon per year.
Walking and wildlife
Back in La Clusaz, after a fortifying lunch at the cosy L’Ecuelle Restaurant, I jumped on a gondola to the top of the Beauregard plateau. The sky was a deep blue, the snow sparkled and the air was so fresh it almost took my breath away. From the top, at 1650m, the view across the Aravis mountain range is stunning. Skiers and snowboarders prepared for their adrenalin fuelled adventure whilst I studied my map of walking routes that in summer are green with forests and bright with meadows of wildflowers. Once I left the ski area behind, it was just me with the silence of nature, the pure air and the crunch of snow under my snowshoes (which I recommend for snow walking). Perfect.
There’s so much to do off skis that it’s hard to know where to start! The horse and cart ride is magical, clopping along with a rug to keep you warm is so relaxing and for thrill seekers there’s mushing – dog sledding with beautiful huskies and a guide to take you on a magical mountain tour. In La Clusaz, La Bascule, a brand new giant swing perched on the Balcon des Aravis Terrace (1860m) offers incredible views – only for those with a head for heights. Or you could go paddle boarding on Lake Annecy, play an Escape Game in the mountains, do yoga in the snow, or take an evening walk with guides overlooking Mont Blanc, glowing pink as the sun sets. Followed by dinner at restaurant Lucia in Saint-Jean-de-Sixt, it’s hard to imagine a more perfect day.
The next morning I headed to Le Semnoz, the closest mountain village to Annecy, the historic and chocolate box lid pretty capital of Haute-Savoie. Joining a nature and wildlife hike with guide Lauris Chaumond, we were soon off-piste and wandering the white wilderness – a real experience of winter paradise.
As we walked, the soft snow fell around us and Laurence pointed out signs of wildlife – mountain hares, foxes, birds and other animals, and learned about the trees and fauna and told tales of the mountains as we admired the majestic views of mountains and forests.
Annecy and Menthon
Annecy is lovely year-round and in winter it’s especially pretty, it would be easy to spend a weekend here too and there’s lots to do from museums to wandering the incredibly picturesque old town, to learning how to make a dried flower wreath at artisan florist Blomeko.
If you happen to be there in December, there’s a colourful Christmas market with stalls along the canal and Castle walls. And there’s a very charming Christmas market at the nearby Chateau of Menthon-Saint-Bernard which is well worth a visit any time, and where you can also indulge in a dish of fondue with a glass of wine, serenaded by local bands or a choir while falling in love with the views of the snow-covered mountains all around, the lake and the city below.
Back at my lakeside hotel, Rivage Hôtel & Spa, I thawed out with a session in the steam room and sauna before heading out for aperitifs in the city and a robust dinner of tartiflette, mountain food that makes you smile.
Who says winter around the mountains is only for skiers?
TRAVEL INFORMATION
Geneva is the closest international airport for Annecy. The fast TGV train from Paris takes from just 3h45m.
Aravis Bus offers free shuttle services connecting villages in the Aravis mountain range from La Clusaz to Le Grand-Bornand, Saint-Jean-de-Sixt, Manigod and Thônes.
Find out more at: annecymountains.com
Amy McPherson is a London based travel writer whose work has been featured in international publications. Cats, cycling and food features heavily in her writing and her blog at: www.footprintsandmemories.com
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