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Discover the riches of the Rhône Valley on a cruise

Discover the riches of the Rhône Valley on a cruise
Arles, Hospital where Van Gogh was treated after cutting off his own ear

Known for centuries as the Rhône Sauvage, after its ferocious nature, the Rhône river has been largely calmed over the years thanks to the creation of locks and dams which have now made it a fabulous cruise destination for exploring valleys of vineyards, picturesque villages, historic cities and the Camargue, an area of outstanding natural beauty. Discover the riches of the Rhône Valley on a cruise…

The Rhône river runs for 505 miles, starting in the Swiss Alps and ending in the Mediterranean Sea near Arles. I joined a 6-day cruise (CroisiEurope.co.uk) which took in some of the most beautiful sites along the banks of the Rhône Valley from Lyon to Martigues, one of the coastal gems of Provence. It’s astonishing just how diverse the route is over a relatively short distance of around 300km (180 miles) and how many cultural treasures there are to discover en route.

Discover the riches of the Rhône Valley on a cruise

Palais des Papes Avignon
Palais des Papes Avignon

Avignon is the capital of the Vaucluse department in Provence, southern France. It’s the world-famous seat of the 14th-century Popes. Their former home is the greatest Gothic palace in Europe and UNESCO World Heritage listed. Avignon is also home to a famous medieval bridge which inspired a song known around the world. Only half the bridge remains, the rest carried away by persistent flooding on the once very wild river. Avignon is small enough to get a feel for its many attractions on foot from where the boat docks. There’s even time to dance on the bridge!

St-Rémy-de-Provence
St-Rémy-de-Provence

The city is close to many of the most famous and loved Provence villages and our tour managed to fit in two of them – Les Baux-de-Provence and St-Rémy-de-Provence which are just minutes from each other though quite different.

I visited on a rainy day, but the charms of St-Rémy were not dampened. Plane-tree shaded squares, elegant streets, cafés filled with locals chilling over coffee or wine, tinkling fountains – this little town is a photographer’s dream.

Les Baux-de-Provence
Les Baux-de-Provence

Les Baux-de-Provence is quite different, reached via steep roads, you arrive at a perched village topped by a ruined castle. It’s a small town with just a few roads that are lined with restaurants and tiny shops. The views are dazzling, and you may, like me, leave a little of your heart here.

Arles

Arles Roman amphitheatre
Arles Roman amphitheatre photo © David Juricevich

The Romans arrived here in the second century BC and if they were to return today, they’d recognise the amphitheatre, the Thermal Baths of Constantin and the Theatre. There are grand churches, ancient buildings, and flower-festooned cobbled streets – Arles is one of those cities that has something to thrill every visitor.

In 1888 Vincent Van Gogh fell for its charms. He shared a house with Paul Gaugin, and painted many of the masterpieces that have won him a legion of admirers. The café he immortalised in Café Terrace at Night is instantly recognisable. The hospital where he was treated after cutting off his ear has changed little since his iconic painting which captured the bright colours and flowery courtyard, though it is now full of offices and shops.

In Arles, the Rhône River splits into two branches which flows onto the Mediterranean and we had time visit to lovely Martigues, just 40km from Marseille. Known as the Venice of Provence, this Mediterranean town is crisscrossed by canals and streets lined with pastel-coloured houses. Sip a chilled Pastis in a café along the marina to get a true feel of Provençal life.

The Camargue

Camargue cowboy
Camargue cowboy

Our cruise took us to one of the most exotic parts of France – the Camargue. After the river splits in Arles, the two branches, the Petit Rhône and the Grand Rhône, form a delta. The Parc Naturel Régional de Camargue, a nationally designated protected area with salt ponds and freshwater marshes is home to flamboyant pink flamingos. On land, herds of white horses and long-horned black bulls roam – this is France’s cowboy country, wild and wonderfully lush.

Tain l’Hermitage and the Vercors Massif

Tain L'Hermitage
Tain L’Hermitage © Jeremy Flint

The Rhône Valley is wine country and having enjoyed the local wines onboard our ship, we stopped off at Tain l’Hermitage to visit the stupendously steep terraced vineyards. The Syrah grapes that grow here are said to have been bought back from the Middle East by a Crusader called Henri Gaspard de Staremberg who planted the vines near the little chapel at the top of the Hermitage Hill. From here we headed into the mountains of the Vercors Regional Nature Park for views to die for and a wine tasting of the famous sparkling wine, Clairette de Die.

For an all-round tour of the abundant treasures of the Rhône Valley, this is a great cruise that shows the incredible diversity of the regions that make up this historic, wine making part of France. Comfy rooms, superb cuisine and fabulous wines (all-inclusive), plus a great choice of excursions make it truly special

Find out more at: CroisiEurope.co.uk

Janine Marsh is the author of several internationally best-selling books about France. Her latest book How to be French – a celebration of the French lifestyle and art de vivre, is out now – a look at the French way of life. Find all books on her website janinemarsh.com

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