Discover the secrets of the Loire Valley by bike with ease, luxury and comfort built in. Effortlessly elegant chateaux made of pale Tuffeau stone and shimmering slate clad turrets. Mile after mile of neat but undulating vineyards, and a history that dates back to Roman times. All set to the backdrop of the vast and lazy river Loire winding its way to the Atlantic. It’s not hard to see why the Loire Valley is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and such a compelling corner of France. And a Loire Valley cycling tour is a very special way to unlock some of the region’s secrets.
Effortless cycling?
Before we start pedalling, let’s debunk a few myths. In the Loire, a cycling holiday doesn’t have to be hard work. In fact, far from it. With an e-bike doing the heavy lifting and a trailer on hand to transport you and your bikes back to base when required, a cycling holiday in the Loire is more about life’s simple pleasures and exploring the nooks and crannies of the region at your own pace, rather than breaking out in a sweat.
With thousands of kilometres of dedicated cycle routes and a number of places that can’t be reached by car or coach, if you want to slow down, get off the beaten track and experience the locals’ Loire, then taking to two wheels is the way to go.
Slow down
A Loire Brakes cycling holiday is based around a beautifully restored farmhouse just south of Chinon, where you’ll return each night for a dip in the pool or al fresco dining … or both! The holidays are organised and run by a British couple, Kevin and Denise, whose love for the region and its people is palpable. Their cycling holidays are all about savouring the region, trying local wine and produce, and meeting the producers.
As Kevin and Denise explain, “On e-bikes and with us as your guide, you will be taken on a slow, easy journey of discovery. You will see chateaux, towns and villages, learn about the history of the region and the magnificent Loire, as well as taste the wine and seasonal food this region has to offer.”
The cycling part
Don’t be overwhelmed at the prospect of choosing between an eight-day or ten-day cycling tour. This is laid back cycling and there is plenty of rest and relaxation built into both tours, with days off for excursions and Denise and Kevin are quite clear that their mission is, “that everyone should be able to enjoy the sights and sounds of the Loire Valley even if they feel a little hesitant about cycling”.
After a day of settling in when you arrive, you start with a cycle along the banks of the great river Loire. It’s a nice gentle start, and over the course of the next few days, you’ll rediscover the joy of travel by bike as you cycle along the sleepy Voie Vert (a disused steam engine track), and along the banks of the river Indre.
The Loire’s secrets
Along the way, you stop at ancient villages, take in views of Renaissance castles and weave and wind your way around the valleys, limestone cliffs and forests of the region. Tiny lanes lead you away from riverside tabacs and restaurants, and the occasional climb reveals views of bustling vineyards sweeping the Loire’s sloping hills. With the sun on your face, this is one of those moments that you know you’re going to remember for a long time.
Each day is peppered with plenty of pitstops at local gems. How about a French, picnic style lunch at a chateau and wine tasting in an old family vineyard? Or exploring the Loire Valley National Park in a traditional flat-bottomed boat and climbing the winding, Medieval backstreets of Chinon, a town that dates back to the 11th century?
Azay le Rideau is another jaw-droppingly pretty town that also dates back to the 11th century, although it was later destroyed and rebuilt around the magnificent and famed 16th century Chateau de Azay-le-Rideau, described as an architectural masterpiece.
A lingering lunch here is the perfect way to recuperate after a gentle morning in the saddle before exploring the narrow, cobbled streets or discovering the opulence of the silk curtains, gold and silver embroidery, and beautiful tapestries and paintings, all of which you’ll find inside the chateau.
Troglodyte villages, pommes tapées and cheese
Some of the most remarkable places in the Loire are the troglodyte villages, tucked away in the valleys not far from Saumur. Here, until as late as the 1930s, locals used to live in the caves built into the limestone rock faces of the hills and created as a result of quarrying the Tuffeau stone to make the region’s chateaux and great houses.
Turquant is a particularly striking troglodyte village where former homes have been revitalised into artisan shops and restaurants. You can visit the caves and the workshops where sculptors, metalworkers, glassblowers and other creatives share their knowledge and showcase their wares. Or you can try the traditional local dish, pommes tapées, and learn about its history. And it wouldn’t be a trip the Loire without a little cheese and sparkling wine tasting, and a trip to a museum before you head home.
A cycling holiday in the Loire valley is about so much more than just cycling. It’s about gentle exercise and fresh air, of course, but it’s also about allowing yourself the time to stop and soak up the rhythm and emotions of this beautiful region of France.
Kevin and Denise run Loire Brakes –hosting small group e-bike (which they provide) tours of the Loire Valley. Find out more and join a tour at: loirebrakes.com
