About an hour’s drive from the port of Calais, Hesdin Pas-de-Calais is a small town nestled in the Seven Valleys region. Surrounded by rolling hills and beautiful countryside, Hesdin is something of a hidden gem – a lovely, traditional French town says local Janine Marsh.
In 1554, if you had visited what is now the town of Hesdin, you’d have seen a building frenzy in progress, the ruler of the area having destroyed most of another nearby town – then also called Hesdin (now known as Vieil-Hesdin- Old Hesdin), for resisting his rule. No ordinary ruler either. He was Charles Quint, Holy Roman Emperor and King of Spain.
Confused? Well, this area has a long and yes, confusing history. Formerly part of Artois then Flanders, this corner of northern France was long coveted by the Spanish, the Burgundians and the English for its rich fertile lands, lakes, forests and proximity to the English Channel. Hesdin only became French in 1659.
What to see and do in Hesdin Pas-de-Calais
Today the well-preserved buildings and historic remains bear witness to Hesdin’s rich history. The former palace the Emperor built for his sister Marie of Hungary is now the town hall. Above the lavishly ornate entrance porch you’ll spot the Imperial Eagle of the Hapsburgs, and above the sculpted balcony is the Spanish royal coat of arms, added by Charles’ son and successor, Phillip II of Spain. Inside, the vaulted dungeons look much as they did hundreds of years ago, you can visit the little museum there as part of a guided tour with the tourist office. The palace ballroom is now a theatre. And the building is dominated by a UNESCO-listed belfry.
It’s a quintessential market town, with cobbled streets and ancient Flemish-influenced buildings, and boasts one of the best markets in the region, a sprawl of stalls on the main square, Place d’Armes, which spill out into side streets, selling everything from mattresses to live chickens. Legend has it that the Niagara Falls tightrope walker Charles Blondin, AKA the ‘Great Blondin’ was born in a circus tent on this square in 1824! He’s honoured at the flower-bedecked Pont Blondin, a great place to sit and relax under the ancient trees, or to launch your canoe into the river Canche that gently meanders through the town, lapping the walls beneath the windows of the ancient houses that line the river.
There’s an ancient church, a sprinkling of shops, an art gallery, and plenty of cosy cafés, bars and restaurants. Just off Place d’Armes, a plaque on the wall of a magnificent mansion marks the birthplace of French author Abbé Prévost (1697-1793). It’s now a Chambre d’hôtes, bookshop and home to artist Franck Groux who gives pottery lessons on the top floor with the help of his friendly parrot Cookie! There’s also a lovely reading room where you can enjoy a coffee, and a shop that sells Franck’s pottery and art from other local artists (maisonnateldelabbeprevost.com)
Hesdin was once an important garrison town, with the first barracks constructed in 1667, and several historic military buildings remain.
There’s plenty going on year-round, from flea markets and festivals to a rendezvous of vintage vehicles and free concerts in summer months.
The centuries old Hesdin forest on the edge of the town, where nobles and kings once hunted, is crisscrossed by footpaths, horse riding and cycling trails beneath a leafy canopy of oak and sycamore trees. There’s plenty of wildlife such as colourful pheasants, buzzards, woodpeckers and deer, and magnificent views over the surrounding valleys. In spring the forest floor is a sea of bluebells, and in summer the lush green haven is perfect for a picnic among the wildflowers.
Hesdin’s considerable charm is in its sleepy vibe, rich history and traditional architecture. There are humpback bridges over the rivulets of the Canche and Ternoise rivers, and flower festooned streets lit by pretty copper streetlamps. It’s brimming with welcoming bistros and cosy cafés. And there are a few quirky things you won’t find elsewhere. A bee museum for instance in in the nearby village of Bouin Plumoisin. There’s even a beehive with glass viewing windows so you can watch them going about their business and buy some of their honey or pollen which is famous in these parts. Coach loads of old people stop off here to buy it and swear by its power to keep colds, hay fever and aching joints at bay.
Close by, the historic Battle of Agincourt was fought between the English King Henry V and the French army on Saint Crispin’s Day, 25 October 1415. The event is brought to life at the superb Centre Azincourt1415, where interactive displays and exhibitions tell the story of the battle, the players and of life in the Middle Ages. It’s well worth a detour.
Pick up an English language guide, or book a tour at the tourist office which is located in the main square: valleesdopale.com
Practical information
Locals love: Trois Fontaines Hotel (hotel-les3fontaines.com) restaurant has a lovely garden, perfect for sunny days, a short walk from the town centre but feels like you’re in the countryside.
Aperitif at: Chai Pinot wine bar (1 rue d’Arras), cosy inside or sit outside overlooking the pretty square. Ask Florent the friendly wine expert for advice about what wine to take home – he speaks a little English and is super helpful
Snack at: La Bohème Créperie (38 rue d’Arras), is run by artist Korî and chef Paul who makes superb Breton style pancakes. It’s a few doors down from the free-to-visit Ateliers d’Art et d’Artistes 7 Vallées which showcases the work of local artists of which there are many.
Dine at: Belle Epoque (la-belle-epoque-hesdin.com), a long-time favourite with the locals and visitors for its classic, traditional menu.
Stay at: Manor Marceau (manoirmarceau.fr) in Vieil-Hesdin, a short drive from the town, is a stunning 16th to 19th century manor house, now a B&B run by stained-glass and decoupage artist Emilie Delattre Marceau, who also runs onsite stained-glass workshops.
Janine Marsh is the author of several internationally best-selling books about France. Her latest book How to be French – a celebration of the French lifestyle and art de vivre, is out now – a look at the French way of life. Find all books on her website janinemarsh.com
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