Aveyron is one of those almost secret parts of France that you think can’t possibly exist in real life. Ancient bastide villages with cobbled winding streets make you feel as if you’re in a place where time has stood still. There are lush green valleys and flowery meadows, forested gorges and vineyards that cling to the side of steep hills. Medieval hamlets whose roofs poke out of the leafy canopies that cover valleys lure you to stop and wander in wonder.
Towns like Estaing, officially one of the most beautiful in France and Conques on the pilgrim route are sublimely beautiful. Villefranche-de-Rouergue has one of the prettiest markets in France, spilling out from Place Notre-Dame with stalls piled high with fruit and vegetables, spices, sticky sweets, warm breads and patisseries, herbs, flowers, meats slow turning on the spit and vast pans of steaming shell fish, all teasing and tempting you. Najac with its astonishing castle and dramatic views, Belcastel where you cross a bridge and find yourself stepping back in time, and Roquefort, birthplace of the famous cheese.
It’s a place that’s not to be rushed but savoured, where you’ll fall in love with the way of life. Totally unspoiled by mass tourism, this is La France Profonde, unchanging, authentic and utterly charming.
