Tell someone you’re going to the Lot Valley on holiday and chances are you’ll be met by nods of recognition and even envy. One of the most picturesque rivers in south-west France, the Lot meanders in dramatic loops through unspoilt villages, lush countryside and vineyards, as well as historic Cahors. Holiday here and you are in for a scenic séjour with local culture and cuisine an added bonus.
But tell people you’re staying in the Célé Valley and chances are you’ll be met with blank looks. Even though the Célé joins the Lot east of Cahors, this tranquil valley winds through equally pretty countryside just north of its better-known neighbour. Stay beside the Célé and you are enjoying one of Occitanie’s best-kept secrets.
Le Moulin sur Célé – Luxurious holiday villa in the Lot valley
Nestled in the heart of this tranquil valley is Le Moulin sur Célé, a renovated water mill and tower just outside Saint-Sulpice. Midway between the enchanting medieval town of Figeac to the east and the outstanding painted caves of Pech Merle to the west, this glorious, secluded property offers a private luxury experience for 10 people.
The perfect French rural retreat combining modern comfort with 16th century atmosphere, Le Moulin sur Célé is the vision of Irish hotelier Deirdre McGlone and her Swiss husband Marc Gysling, former owners of the world famous Harvey’s Point Hotel in Ireland. The couple had 30 years’ experience in the hospitality industry when they sold up in Donegal and began looking for a smaller property in sunnier climes. Lifelong lovers of the French lifestyle, they viewed Le Moulin sur Célé in 2020 and were instantly smitten. Within a few weeks, they had purchased the stylish property and set about creating their concept of a private, luxury holiday venue.
Facilities here are top notch. Le Moulin sleeps 10 people in five bedrooms split between The Miller’s House and The Tower. Outside, guests enjoy a private section of beach and riverbank; exclusive use of the 15-acre grounds; a 12-metre private pool; tennis court; and two sun terraces with furniture and flower tubs. Optional extras include airport transfers, baby-sitting, personal trainer, private catering, and beauty treatments.
But whilst it is tempting to stay put and just revel in having your own piece of French history for a week or two, the countryside of the Célé Valley is a delight with its authentic villages and small shops, riverside walks, and local markets and festivals.
Discover the Célé Valley – a secret part of France
You could, for instance, have your bread delivered, but the seven-minute drive to Marcilhac-sur-Célé for baguettes and croissants makes a great start to the day. Go back later when everyone is up and around to walk beside the river and through the atmospheric ruins of the 11th century Benedictine Abbey. Home today to the Tourist Office, the nearby Maison du Roy – King’s House – once welcomed King Henri IV.
Keep following the river and you soon arrive in Sauliac-sur-Célé, a village that decamped in the middle of the 19th Century from its original site on high ground beneath a sheer cliff to a more practical site down at river level. Stroll up the track leading to the old village to enjoy a panorama of Sauliac old and new, as well as information panels displaying black-and-white photos of the original community.
As the Célé flows closer to the Lot, the village of Cabrerets hides a treasure of its own for those who take time to look beneath the surface. Discovered in 1922, the Pech Merle caves are home to some of the best prehistoric paintings in Europe, dating back 29,000 years. Highlights include the Black Frieze containing 25 animal figures; the Spotted Horses panel edged by negative handprints; and a number of human figures including a Wounded Man. Add in a child’s footprint, preserved for eternity in fossilised mud, and you have a site you will remember long after the holiday is over.
Pickled in the past and postcard-pretty villages
From Cabrerets, it’s barely 10km to Saint-Cirq-Lapopie, listed among the elite band of Plus Beaux Villages de France and once voted the village where French people would most like to live. With its steep cobbled streets, half-timbered buildings and ruined castle high above the Lot, Saint-Cirq is also hugely popular with visitors in high season. But stay at the Moulin-de-Célé, less than 30 km away, and you can arrive before this enchanting village gets busy or after the crowds have left.
Head east from Le Moulin and the Célé passes through Espagnac-Sainte-Eulalie, a small village with a big history. Soak up the atmosphere of the historic Priory of Val Paradis – the Paradise Valley – with its extraordinary bell tower, then head into Figeac, a medieval must-see of the Lot department.
The layout of the town centre has changed little since the Middle Ages and medieval properties still line the narrow streets, as well as Renaissance town houses and 18th century mansions. Pick up the free leaflet, Les Clefs de Figeac, from the Tourist Office for a self-guided tour around the key architectural gems of this enchanting Art & History Town. Or maybe book a guided tour for the full inside story.
Historic treasures
Equally absorbing is the Maison Champollion in the heart of the old town, the birthplace of Egyptologist Jean-François Champollion. In 1820, the bookseller’s son from Figeac finally deciphered the hieroglyphs on the Rosetta Stone, opening up a greater understanding of all earlier discoveries in Egypt. Discover his fascinating story at the Musée Champollion, as well as the development of written communication across the world.
Don’t miss the views over Figeac rooftops from the top floor gallery, nor the Place des Ecritures behind the museum. The original fragment of the Rosetta Stone stands in the British Museum in London, but here in this small square, surrounded by period properties, a giant horizontal slab of granite is etched with a reproduction of those mysterious hieroglyphs.
From Figeac, you can turn south to explore the perched village of Capdenac, tucked in a tight loop of the Lot river. Or you can save that for another day and, in just half an hour, be back at Le Moulin sur Célé to relax by the river, take a dip in the pool, or maybe open a bottle of wine to enjoy with a meal of fresh local produce from a village market. Life is full of difficult decisions, but here at Le Moulin, the most significant one you’ll need to make is usually red, white or rosé!
Book a stay at Le Moulin sur Célé and discover a corner of paradise in southern France.
