France is home to more than 1000 museums including the Louvre, the world’s biggest and most visited museum. But there are also a lot of unusual, eccentric and outright quirky museums. Janine Marsh takes a look at three of the most unusual museums in France: one dedicated to dairy products, one with a frankly eclectic collection of artefacts including a photo of Yoko Ono’s derrière, and a tiny museum dedicated to a once banned drink – and which includes a tasting!
Fondation du Doute, Blois, Loire Valley
Most people visit the Loire Valley for its majestic chateaux, wonderful vineyards, historic cities, gorgeous gardens and beautiful villages. But for something different you might like to pop to the Fondation du Doute (fondationdudoute.fr) in Blois. This the only place in Europe dedicated to the movement known as Fluxus which began in the 1960’s in New York with the ethos: “museums do not have the authority to determine the value of art”.
Fluxus is a form of art that embraces humour and maybe a bit of anarchy. Remember this as you wander the galleries of this art venue (“not a museum” the staff are adamant), because the artwork on show here is really very different indeed.
This is one of the most unusual museums in France. Among the very eclectic displays is a car door installation which forms a bizarre orchestra as some forty car doors are smashed by hammers operated by small electric motors. And there is a wall of photos of naked derrières of artists (incognito), including Yoko Ono and Andy Warhol. “Is it art?” you may ask yourself. Well, the point of Fluxus is to show we all have the ability to be creative. It’s certainly odd and oddly fun, plus there’s a great little café on the ground floor.
Absinthe Museum, Auvers-sur-Oise, Picardie
In a small town, about an hour’s drive north of Paris, the Absinthe museum (musee-absinthe.com) celebrates the anise-flavoured alcoholic spirit nicknamed the ‘Green Fairy’. Known for its ‘allegedly’ hallucinogenic properties, it was a popular choice of drink in 19th century Europe, especially among French poets and artists. It was banned in France in 1915 due to its reputation for causing insanity (the ban was only lifted in 2011).
In the museum you’ll find rooms full of fascinating absinthe-related memorabilia, posters and paintings of drinkers often looking a little worse for wear after a glass or two of the potent aperitif, and a replica of a 19th century Parisian bar.
The visit ends with a tasting so you can see for yourself what all the fuss is about!
After your museum visit, pay your respects at Vincent Van Gogh’s grave in the town’s cemetery – the absinthe-loving artist killed himself in Auvers-sur-Oise in 1890.
La Cité du Lait Dairy Museum, Laval, Mayenne
Mayenne with its glorious countryside, is a leading dairy production area and, if you are a dairy fan, you may well find La Cité du Lait (lacitedulait.com) – a museum dedicated to all things dairy, a irresistible visit. Did you know that the average cow produces around 9000 litres of milk a year? Or that the rind of Camembert is good for digestion? Or that yoghurt as we know it, was introduced to France by Russian immigrants in the early 20th century and that in those days you had to buy it at a pharmacy because it was considered medicinal?
The museum is certainly out of the ordinary. It’s enormous and has around 4000 artifacts – from milk churns to cheese lids – collecting cheese lids in France is a thing, collectors are known as tyrosémiophiles!
The museum hosts vast displays of milk bottles and butter pats, there are explanations galore about French cheeses and their origins – there’s even a bibliotheque de fromage (cheese library). The displays are in French, but you can book a tour with an English guide or ask for an English language booklet.
It’s strangely captivating.
Janine Marsh is the author of several internationally best-selling books about France. Her latest book How to be French – a celebration of the French lifestyle and art de vivre, is out now – a look at the French way of life. Find all books on her website janinemarsh.com
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