What to see and do in Cap d’Agde

Just a short hop from Béziers, Agde and its neighbours offer unique cultural attractions and all the fun of the Occitanie coast.

The Ancient Greeks knew a strategic spot when they saw one, so when they pitched up near present-day Agde in the 5^th century BC, the combination of volcanic outcrop and broad river ticked all their boxes for the perfect trading base.

Today the first Greek port in the western Mediterranean is the gateway to one of France’s newest seaside resorts, Le Cap d’Agde, and to the fishing port of Le Grau d’Agde, three contrasting communities in one neat package around the Hérault river. Catch a shuttle bus (beziers.aeroport.fr) from Béziers-Cap d’Agde airport or take the train for the 12-minute journey from Béziers to Agde on the Occitanie rail network.

AGDE

The Greeks named their new port Agathé Tyché – Good Fortune – and the town remained one of the largest commercial ports in the Mediterranean right up to the 18^th century. Today, the sloping riverside site once occupied by Greek traders is a maze of narrow streets lined mostly with 17^th century properties, where grand staircases and ornate loggias often overlook interior courtyards. If a door is open, peep in!

At the foot of the hill, the 12^th century cathedral of Saint-Etienne is something of a surprise, built from black basalt from nearby Mont Saint-Loup, last in a chain of extinct volcanoes running south from the Auvergne. For central accommodation close to the cathedral, station, and quayside restaurants like the friendly L’Amiral, book one of the spacious rooms at Hotel Yseria. Located in a 17^th century barracks overlooking Place Jean Jaurès, this charming small hotel is a member of the reliable Logis network.

Agde is also home to an unexpected art treasure, the extraordinary Château Laurens, set in a spacious park overlooking the junction of the Hérault river and the Canal du Midi, just minutes’ walk from the cathedral. In 1897, 24-year-old medical student Emmanuel Laurens inherited a huge fortune as well as the family estate of Belle-Ile, commissioning a vast villa in the latest Art Nouveau style, inspired by Antiquity and his passion for foreign travel.

Laurens entertained here in lavish style until the 1930s when his investments crashed and he was forced to sell, remaining a tenant however until his death in 1959. The abandoned chateau steadily deteriorated until purchased by the town in 1994, eventually opening to the public in June 2023 after major restoration. Expect a surreal fantasy of bold colours, elaborate furniture, and stunning stained glass.

Cap d’Agde

Officially inaugurated in July 1970, Cap d’Agde was part of an effort to bring tourism to vacant land on the Languedoc coast. Half a century later, this family-friendly resort fringes a circular inlet with unspoilt sandy beaches on either side of the harbour entrance.

There’s a relaxed feel to Cap d’Agde as I stroll the boardwalk beside the marina and browse the boutiques beneath the big wheel on my way to La Madragde where I enjoy an excellent prix fixe lunch. This upbeat resort doesn’t have quite the cachet of the Riviera, but nor does it have the price tag.

And Cap d’Agde has a surprising cultural treasure too in a shady park close to the sleek curves of the new casino. The Musée de l’Ephèbe is the only museum of underwater archaeology in France, named after the Ephèbe statue, an exceptional bronze of Alexander the Great found beneath the Herault river. All the exhibits here have been found in nearby waters, some of the pieces dating back 27 centuries, and all of them providing a snapshot into local life.

Ephèbe is certainly one beautiful Greek hunk but I also love the bronze of Césarion, a wavy-haired boy believed to be a royal child of around six or seven; the different shapes of the Greek and Roman amphoras; and the comparatively modern weapons and personal possessions recovered from ships sunk in the 16^th and 17^th centuries.

Le Grau d’Agde

Before returning to Agde, I complete the triangle by heading west to Le Grau d’Agde at the mouth of the Hérault river, the word ‘grau’ signifying an opening into the sea. This traditional Mediterranean fishing village is home to an unexpected visitor attraction that is a must-do for any foodie, open every weekday from April through to end October.

Named after the cries of the women who traditionally sorted and shouted out news about the day’s catch, the Belvedere of La Criée du Grau d’Agde is the only French fish auction in the Mediterranean basin that is open to the public.

Take a guided tour to watch the boats unload their glistening prizes. Fish, shellfish and octopus, all sorted and ready for sale. Then watch through large windows as the 4pm fish auction takes place in front of professional buyers. I can guarantee you will look at your next fish supper with new respect after learning about the lives and challenges of the men who brought it to you!

By Gillian Thornton, one of the UK’s leading travel writers and a regular writer for The Good Life France Magazine and website.