Discover what to see and do in the Loire Rhone-Alpes – part of the bigger region of Auvergne-Rhone-Alpes since 2016, this is a department of contrasts and of outstanding natural beauty.
What to see and do in the Loire Rhone-Alpes
Sometimes overlooked for its better-known neighbours, and not to be confused with the Loire of the Loire Valley in the north, the Loire has a rugged landscape. In the west, explore the Monts du Forez and Monts de la Madeleine, part of the Massif Central, with their pastures, forests and stunning views. And at the Parc Naturel Régional du Pilat, you’ll find the dramatic Gorges de la Loire with sheer cliffs and shimmering lakes.
The region’s main city is Saint-Étienne, a UNESCO City of Design, with museums, galleries and a creative vibe. Meanwhile, the smaller town of Roanne is a river port and hot pot of textiles and gastronomy, and where you’ll still find plenty of traces of when it was occupied by the Romans.
A visit to this region is all about nature and heritage.
The future is in Saint-Étienne
Saint-Étienne, the capital of the Loire department, is a city of contrasts, cultural curiosity and mostly, of energetic and innovative design which has qualified it for a UNESCO listing for City of Design since 2010.
There are several excellent museums and art venues but don’t miss the Cite du Design, housed in a former weapons factory, where you can sit in an Apollo spacecraft-like pod to discover how films might be viewed in the future – with a 360-degree screen. And climb the 32m high lookout tower at the museum for a view over the city.
Saint-Étienne is the premier site for the designs of Le Corbusier (whose work is UNESCO World Heritage listed) including a church and sports complex. I have to confess, I never really got why Le Corbusier was seen as an essential theoretical and artistic reference for 20th and 21st century architecture and the modern movement, until I saw what he had designed in this innovative city.
From the outside, his apartment blocks can look rather concrete jungle, but take a tour of the Firminy Vert housing site to discover just how much of a pioneer of modern architecture he was. The apartments have huge picture windows, to create good vibes and open up the space, and there are wide, long corridors which acted as indoor play areas for kids who could ride their bikes and play in them. In their early days, the joined blocks had a school and shops – essentially, they were vertical towns with everything to hand.
For a total contrast, take a relaxing river cruise (some trips include lunch) along the picturesque Gorges de la Loire, the departure port is at Saint Victor-sur-Loire, around 20 minutes driver from Saint-Etienne. The scenery along the river is magnificent – castles, medieval villages, dramatic cliffs, and water sports galore.
Experience a less well-known part of France with beautiful nature, timeless sleepy villages, spectacular scenery, wonderful wines and great gastronomy. A place where the traditions of the past are held dear but where the future beckons…
Pilat Natural Regional Park
It’s a short journey to the Pilat Natural Regional Park, an unspoiled area of outstanding natural beauty where wines grow, and mountains seem to reach the sky.
Make a food stop at: L’Escale (2 route de Sagnemorte) restaurant in the pretty village of Roisey in the heart of the park where locals go for a glass of their favourite wine, St Joseph Blanc and to indulge in home cooked, traditional dishes as they’ve been made for hundreds of years, lentils, robust sausages, rich sauces and food that makes your heart sing and your stomach stretch.
Don’t worry about that – you can walk it off easily here, this is country made for hiking or for more gentle walks through picturesque villages like Malleval and for skiing in the winter months. It’s quite astonishing to realise you’re only an hour from the city of Lyon by car – it feels other worldly and isolated, utterly beautiful.
Sainte-Croix-en-Jarez
In the foothills of the Pilat Massif, stop off at the historic Plus Beaux Village (a label awarded to the prettiest villages in France) of Sainte-Croix-en-Jarez to discover how a former 13th century charterhouse has been turned into a housing commune. Sold off during the French Revolution, the monastery, built in 1280, now consists of 44 homes. The tourist office is housed in what was once the monastery boulangerie, and there’s even a school on site. Some of the buildings are kept empty and preserved, in one there is a beautiful fresco created in 1334, and there are 15th century stalls in the church. Like much of the region – it’s an enchanting surprise.
Dine and stay at: Hotel and restaurant Eclosion (hotelrestauranteclosion.fr) on the outskirts of Saint-Etienne. Honestly some of the best food I’ve ever tasted. Refined, innovative, and utterly divine dishes by young, rising star chef Pierre Carducci, followed by sweet dreams in the luxurious rooms of this bijou chateau.
Discover the lovely department of the Loire: loirestory.com.en
Discover Auvergne-Rhone-Alpes: auvergnerhonealpes.tourism.com
Janine Marsh is the author of several internationally best-selling books about France.
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