Discover the secrets of the Loire Valley by bike with ease, luxury and comfort built in. Effortlessly elegant chateaux made of pale Tuffeau stone and shimmering slate clad turrets. Mile after mile of neat but undulating vineyards, and a history that dates back to Roman times. All set to the backdrop of the vast and lazy river Loire winding its way to the Atlantic. It’s not hard to see why the Loire Valley is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and such a compelling corner of France. And a Loire Valley bike ride is a very special way to unlock some of the region’s secrets.
Effortless cycling?
Before you start pedalling, let’s debunk a few myths. In the Loire, a cycling holiday doesn’t have to be hard work. In fact, far from it. With an e-bike doing the heavy lifting, a cycling holiday in the Loire is more about life’s simple pleasures and exploring the nooks and crannies of the region at your own pace, rather than breaking out in a sweat.
With thousands of kilometres of dedicated cycle routes and a number of places that can’t be reached by car or coach, if you want to slow down, get off the beaten track and experience the locals’ Loire, then taking to two wheels is the way to go.
Slow down
Touring the Loire Valley by bike should be a slow, easy journey of discovery of the majestic chateaux, beautiful towns and villages, and learning about the history of the region and the magnificent Loire, as well as taste the wine and seasonal food this region has to offer.
The Loire’s secrets
Along the way, you stop at ancient villages, take in views of Renaissance castles and weave and wind your way around the valleys, limestone cliffs and forests of the region. Tiny lanes lead you away from riverside tabacs and restaurants, and the occasional climb reveals views of bustling vineyards sweeping the Loire’s sloping hills. With the sun on your face, this is one of those moments that you know you’re going to remember for a long time.
There are so many place to visit, peppered with plenty of pitstops at local gems. How about a French, picnic style lunch at a chateau and wine tasting in an old family vineyard? Or exploring the Loire Valley National Park in a traditional flat-bottomed boat and climbing the winding, Medieval backstreets of Chinon, a town that dates back to the 11th century?
Azay le Rideau is another jaw-droppingly pretty town that also dates back to the 11th century, although it was later destroyed and rebuilt around the magnificent and famed 16th century Chateau de Azay-le-Rideau, described as an architectural masterpiece.
A lingering lunch here is the perfect way to recuperate after a gentle morning in the saddle before exploring the narrow, cobbled streets or discovering the opulence of the silk curtains, gold and silver embroidery, and beautiful tapestries and paintings, all of which you’ll find inside the chateau.
Troglodyte villages, pommes tapées and cheese
Some of the most remarkable places in the Loire are the troglodyte villages, tucked away in the valleys not far from Saumur. Here, until as late as the 1930s, locals used to live in the caves built into the limestone rock faces of the hills and created as a result of quarrying the Tuffeau stone to make the region’s chateaux and great houses.
Turquant is a particularly striking troglodyte village where former homes have been revitalised into artisan shops and restaurants. You can visit the caves and the workshops where sculptors, metalworkers, glassblowers and other creatives share their knowledge and showcase their wares. Or you can try the traditional local dish, pommes tapées, and learn about its history. And it wouldn’t be a trip the Loire without a little cheese and sparkling wine tasting, and a trip to a museum before you head home.
A cycling holiday in the Loire valley is about so much more than just cycling. It’s about gentle exercise and fresh air, of course, but it’s also about allowing yourself the time to stop and soak up the rhythm and emotions of this beautiful region of France.
Janine Marsh is the author of several internationally best-selling books about France. Her latest book How to be French – a celebration of the French lifestyle and art de vivre, is out now – a look at the French way of life. Find all books on her website janinemarsh.com
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