Aveyron – a hidden gem of France, is in Midi-Pyrenees, Occitainie, in the far south. It’s one of the most uncrowded departments in the country. It feels a little like the land that time forgot with hidden valleys and deep cut river gorges, lofty plateaus like the Aubrac and the Grands Causses, and a lush and rugged landscape. It is cut through by the pilgrim trail of Camino de Santiago, and its ancient villages (many of which are officially some of the prettiest in France) echo with the footsteps of a history that stretches back thousands of years says Lucy Pitts.
Spotlight on Aveyron
As you’d expect in such a rural landscape, its beauty yields an abundance of local produce which you’ll find in local markets, restaurants and cafés – great food and drink are central to life here.
This is a great area for those who love culture, history, gastronomy and the great outdoors. Summers are hot and stretch into autumn, winters are cold – but with very little snow, and spring is warm and sunny.
Rodez is the capital (prefecture) of Aveyron. A small city (population circa 60,000), it dates back to the 5th century since when it has been fought over by Celts, Romans, Visigoths, Franks and even the English.
Rodez was originally two cities and still has two city squares and a delightful combination of Gothic and Renaissance architecture. There is a stunning medieval cathedral and several museums, including the very modern Musée Soulages. Internationally acclaimed painter and sculpture Pierre Soulages (you might recognise his black and white image used in the posters for the Munich Olympic Games in 1972) was born in Rodez in 1919 and was known for his preference for working with black. The museum is designed in vast post-modern, cubic frames of gently rusting Corten steel and inside is an absorbing and fascinating collection of Soulages’ work.
Villefranche-de-Rouergue (population circa 11,000) is perhaps best known for its stunning and vibrant weekly market at which you’ll find superb seasonal produce. The bastide town, meaning it was a planned medieval town, with a Roman grid-like layout and a central market square (Place du Marché), is incredibly pretty and full of architectural treasures. Work began on the dazzling Collegiate Church of Notre-Dame in 1260, and took 300 years to complete. The Monastery of Saint-Sauveur Charterhouse was built in the 15th century and has one of the largest cloisters in France. Here you can follow in the footsteps of Carthusian monks and stroll through the church, the vestibule, the chapter house, the small cloister, the refectory, the old kitchens and the large cloister.
As the road winds its way through the valley of the River Dourdou to Conques, the light seems to shift and soften. Conques is on the Camino de Santiago pilgrim trail and is one of the Plus Beaux Village de France. It feels incredibly remote and is made up of little more than a cluster of timber framed houses stitched along steep and narrow cobbled streets that cling to the hills. The Abbey of St. Foy is the jewel in the crown of Conques. It took 100 years to build and has 23-metre-high vaulted ceilings, 250 Romanesque sculptures, a world-renowned 12th century tympanum of the Last Judgement and a remarkable collection of silver and gold religious relics. Surrounded by countryside and vineyards, there are also shops, restaurants and cafés.
Belcastel won’t take long to explore but be prepared for another breathtakingly pretty village. Also a Plus Beaux Village de France, it sits on the banks of the River Aveyron and is a mix of steep, cobbled streets that lead to the Medieval castle above. The castle is privately owned but after a hearty climb, you can visit and explore some of its compelling and lofty balconies and terraces that look out over the town and landscape beyond.
Najac is another lovely bastide town, dominated by a 13th century hilltop chateau, built by Alphonse de Poitiers, brother of Saint-Louis, King of France (1226-1270). The old town has a jumble of ancient houses and a stunning 14th century fountain, shops and cafés.
Parc Naturel Régional des Grands Causses
The regional nature park has is a heady mix of limestone plateaus, narrow gorges, lush green hills and forests. Part of it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The area can be explored in many ways, including by car, bike or foot. The plateaus include the Causse du Larzac, around 800 metres and often described as a lunar landscape dotted with historic and fortified villages, ramparts and towers, the Causse de Sauveterre, the Causse Méjean and the Causse Noir. The gorges include the famous Tarn and Jonte.
Aveyron has a good local transport network, and trains from Paris take just under 8 hours. There is an airport with UK and Europe connections just outside Rodez. There’s also a good road network in the department including the Viaduc Millau, a remarkable modern example of engineering. It carries the A75 motorway from Clermont-Ferrand to Béziers and Narbonne, is 343 meters high, 2,460 meters long and crosses the Tarn Valley.
Aveyron is laid back, steeped in the past, rural France at its most authentic.
By Lucy Pitts, travel writer and editor of Sussex Exclusive
Want more France?
Discover more fabulous destinations in France with our free magazine The Good Life France
Love France? Have a listen to our podcast – everything you want to know about France and more!
All rights reserved. This article may not be published, broadcast, rewritten (including translated) or redistributed without written permission
