Discover the Drôme Rhone-Alpes

Discover the Drôme – the unspoiled, unknown part of southern France. Rich in culture and history, parts of it feel like a more tranquil and rather nostalgic part of Provence with lavender fields galore. Discover the gastronomic city of Valence, the most extraordinary sites and monuments, castles, historic villages, steep vineyards, chocolate heaven, gorgeous gardens and the wonderful “shoe city.”

Discover the Drôme

You could spend many months in this area getting to know it and discovering its many charms, fabulous gastronomy and wines, its history and culture, chateaux and medieval villages. But who has months? Not many of us, so how about a little road trip through the Drôme and it’s neighbout the Loire – nothing to do with the Loire valley though it is named after the River Loire, the last wild river in Europe, which runs 1006km from Ardèche via the Loire Valley to the Atlantic Ocean.

You could actually drive the entire route I’ve mapped out in 3 and a half hours, but if you do it over a few days or a week, you’ll discover some of the most incredible parts of the region which gives you a snapshot of its surprising and astonishing natural diversity, culture, history, and a delicious taste of its gastronomic delights…

Valence – gastronomic star

Just a couple of hours by train from Paris brings you to the city of Valence perched on the banks of the Rhône river. The capital of the Drôme department and gateway to the south of France, Valence is within reach of the Pre-Alps, the hilly mountainous area between the Swiss plateau and northern side of the French Alps, and the Vercors Massif which you can clearly see from the city’s Esplanade du Champ du Mars park.

Head into the city centre to wander winding cobbled streets lined with a melting pot of architectural styles, and discover the history, culture and cuisine. Don’t miss the Museum of Valence, a former Bishop’s palace, which hosts an eclectic collection of artworks including a stunning early 19^th century wallpapered room – the most complete example in France. Then head to the rooftop for jaw-dropping views over the city and river. Transformed into a viewing point by French architect Jean-Paul Philippon who also oversaw the design of the Musée d’Orsay in Paris, it’s fabulous.

*Statue of a teenaged Napoleon, and the Maison des Tetes, Valence*

“It’s a human-sized town” said guide Stephan as he led me along medieval flower-filled cobbled streets pointing out some of the more unusual features. The Maison des Têtes (House of the heads) for instance, an incredible 16^th century building, covered in carved heads. There are ancient chapels and churches, a statue of Napoleon, not as we usually see him, but as a 16-year-old student reading a book. The Emperor was once a lieutenant at Valence artillery school and in fact stayed at the Maison des Têtes. And don’t miss lovely Place Saint-Jean, where a market is held on Tuesdays, a great place to relax with a glass of wine at one of the many cafés and bars.

Valence is a bit of a gastronomic delight and is home to chef Anne-Sophie Pic, whose restaurants have a total of 10 Michelin Stars, Maison Pic in Valence has three stars. Her presence here has brought more top chefs to the area, so that you’re truly spoiled for choice when it comes to eating out.

You can’t help noticing that boulangeries and patisseries all have small dough figures in the windows. Known as a “Suisse” (Swiss), these orange blossom flavoured biscuity-brioche cakes are a speciality of the area and were created in honour of the Swiss Guard of Pope Pius VI who died in Valence in 1789. You’ll also see pogne, a local brioche cake, in every boulangerie in Valence and across the whole department in various guises, flavoured with orange blossom and sometimes bright pink praline.

Don’t miss:

Take a wine tasting at: Les Bouteilles (8 Rue Vernoux) with the knowledgeable and affable Eric (who recommends a sweet white to go with the Suisse!).
Aperitifs at: La Bastille, (19 Grande Rue), a favourite with the locals who stop off here while picking up some Armenian food from the takeaway opposite.
Locals love: Chez Grand-Mere (3-5 Pl. de la Pierre), famous for the 7-hour slow-cooked lamb and cosy ambiance.
Stay at: Le Clos Syrah clos-syrah.fr 4* hotel which has a fabulous gourmet restaurant.

Romans-sur-Isère – shoe heaven

*Shoes of the French Revolution and shoes made for Queen Elizabeth II, UK*

20km from Valence will bring you to the former industrial town of Romans-sur-Isere where the no. 1 place to go is the Shoe Museum. And I know what you’re thinking because I did too. A shoe museum? That doesn’t sound like a good idea. But I assure you, you are in for a surprise, it’s fascinating!

The museum is in a 17^th century former monastery – and prepare to be amazed. Romans-sur-Isère was once famous for its wool and silk industries, but in the 19th century the local economy tanked when the silk production industry ended. In its place the luxury leather and footwear industry developed, and it was a huge success. You’ll spot giant shoe sculpture dotted around the town in homage to the heritage of shoe production here.

The museum showcases the history of footwear, and the collection of 20,000 shoes is astounding (though not all are on show), ranging from ancient Egyptian and Roman sandals to eye-wateringly high 49cm high platformed shoes from medieval Venice, Queen Catherine de Medici’s silk shoes, legendary French footballer Kylian Mbappé’s unique football boots and Laboutin’s delicate glass slippers made for the release of the 2012 Disney Cinderella film, plus a regal pair of sexy stilettos created for the Golden Jubilee of British Queen Elizabeth II. Made by Patrick Cox, a pair were sent to the Queen though she never wore them as far as is known.

The collection is fascinating, surprisingly fun, and even quite emotional seeing shoes of the type your mum wore, or that you wore through the decades that bring back memories, the Dr Martens loved by punk rockers and rebels in the 70’s, and shoes that make you think of Princess Diana.

The collection charts the changes in fashion and is full of fascinating facts. Details: museedelachaussure.fr

It’s a shoe-in!

Romans-sur-Isère has another claim to fame – its where the first strike was held. When shoe company owners upgraded their factory and machinery, they cut the women workers wages by 25% to help pay for the cost. All of the workers went on strike – and won. It gave the locals a reputation for being strong willed that has lasted to this day. I can tell you that they may well be that, but they are also very friendly and welcoming and have an ethos of solidarity.

This is totally reflected in the town’s other must-visit – the Cité de la Chaussure. Alas the shoe industry here followed the pattern of the wool and silk industries; cheaper imports bought an end to the shoe industry here. But a local group aiming to create new jobs and preserve the shoe heritage bought up old machinery, trained artisan shoemakers and now create shoes that are unique and fabulous. Don’t leave without a visit to see the shoes being made and the fabulous onsite store where you can buy shoes, leather goods, and the most gorgeous umbrellas.

After your visit, hot foot it to the Comptoir des Loges, the oldest restaurant in town. It has a zinc counter and glistening bar which looks like they’ve been lifted straight out of a Renoir painting. Try ravioles du Dauphiné – a cheese and parsley-filled pasta speciality loved by the locals since the 15^th century when the recipe was introduced by Italian charcoal burners working in the area.

Erik Boraja's zen garden — Erik Boraja’s stunning zen garden

Then walk off the calories at the gorgeous gardens of Erik Boraja just 10km from Romans. This Japanese and Mediterranean inspired garden located between the Isère valley and the Vercors massif is astonishingly beautiful and a zen paradise.

Tain-L’Hermitage – wine AND chocolate!

A short journey south will bring you to the town of Tain-L’Hermitage, named, according to legend, after a French knight called Gaspard de Stérimberg, who on returning from the Crusades in 1224, decided to live the life of a hermit on a local hill. He built a chapel on the site of a former Roman temple, which he called the Hermitage. There is still a chapel there, though it dates to the mid-1800s, and you can visit it via a 30-minute walk/climb from the town.

Well the good lord must have smiled down on the town because the hills are covered with luscious vines that make the most delicious wines.

And within stone throwing distance is the Cite du Chocolat Valrhona where you can learn about the whole bean to bar process – did you know that there are sommeliers of chocolate? (I want that job). And even better – you’ll enjoy a chocolate tasting. Just across the road, follow this up with a wine tasting at M. Chapoutier (chapoutier.com/fr) and visit their vineyards on that legendary hill. Harvesting is done by hand here and it’s easy to see why – you need to be part mountain-goat to pick grapes on those slopes!

Hauterives – a palace built from pebbles

You can’t go to this area and not visit the absolutely unique Palais Ideale du Factor Cheval – a palace built by hand over decades from pebbles by a postman at the end of the 19^th century. It’s an awe-inspiring accomplishment and fascinating masterpiece of naive art by a determined self-taught architect who collected stones as he delivered the post. This place deserves an entire article to itself: The Palais Ideal du Factor Cheval

Discover the Loire

And for the Loire part – head to this article where you’ll find the most extraordinary sites, a land of outstanding natural beauty with mountains and forests, gorges, historic villages and a capital city where the future is being written: what to see and do in the Loire, Rhone Alpes

Discover the charms of the Drôme: Ladrometourisme.com/en

Discover Auvergne-Rhone-Alpes: auvergnerhonealpes.tourism.com

Janine Marsh is the author of several internationally best-selling books about France. Her latest book How to be French – a celebration of the French lifestyle and art de vivre, is out now – a look at the French way of life.