I imagine, when you hear the words French Riviera, you conjure images of warm sandy beaches and sunworshippers, evening walks through warm surf, beautiful blue skies and glorious sunsets, wine and succulent seafood. Maybe Marseille comes to mind, the largest port in France and a bustling fishing and seafood center. Or Saint-Tropez with hot days under intense blue skies where celebrities, fashionistas and luxury yacht abound. Perhaps Cannes, with its wide pristine beaches, famous promenade la Croisette, exclusive shops and private clubs facing the bay, le Souquet high above the city offering an unobstructed view of paradise, and the Lerin Islands only 18 minutes offshore. Or Nice, with its daily markets which include food, flowers and antiques, and restaurants specialising in Provençal food.
But there are and towns along the French Riviera that offer a slower pace of life, and perhaps less conspicuous consumption, such as Mandelieu-la-Napoule, situated west of Cannes, a relatively unknown coastal treasure.
My friend Frank and I had completed afternoon classes in a French language college in Cannes and decided that we needed a break. We were in our third week, part of a month-long-study of French. Since Frank had studied in the college over several past summers in Cannes, he was familiar with some of the lesser-known Riviera towns. “This is where,” he said, “we can relax, unwind and enjoy less-crowded beaches and late dinners with some rosé or pastis and bouillabaisse!” I readily agreed.
The name Mandelieu means a place of command, referring to the seat of power of the rulers in the Middle Ages. The Château de la Napoule, a fortified castle built in the 14th century was constructed over an ancient Roman foundation, and became the medieval fortress of the Counts of Villeneuve. The château was destroyed during the French Revolution, only a Roman Tower from the 14th century and an 11th century Saracen Tower remain of the structure.
In the 1920s, Henry Clews Jr (son of wealthy New York banker, Henry Clews) and his wife Marie, designed and entirely renovated the château and turned it into their home. Today, the château boasts a cloister, Gothic style dining room, fashionable bedrooms, an elegant terrace facing the Mediterranean Sea with a private tearoom, and Henry Clews Jr.’s studio. A moderately successful painter, sculptor and architect, his art is displayed throughout the rooms. His remains – and those of Marie – are interred in separate tombs which Henry designed and sculpted, presumably with Marie’s approval! She designed the beautiful gardens outside the chateau which include a topiary of sculpted trees and plants and several small ponds. The chateau is now a museum and a nonprofit arts foundation administered by Henry and Marie’s descendants.
Mandelieu-la-Napoule is the mimosa capital of the world, supplying most of the parfumeries of nearby Grasse and every winter, from January to March, bright, blooming mimosa trees cover the hills of Mandelieu. Initially brought to the area from Australia in the 19th century, Mandelieu-la-Napoule now has the largest number of mimosa trees in Europe. Because of its importance to the local culture and economy, the mimosa flower has its own festival, inaugurated in 1931. La Fête du Mimosa (the Mimosa Festival) is a ten-day celebration held each February, with weekend parades, marching bands and floats adorned with or made from mimosa flowers.
San Peyre
Feel like walking? San Peyre park, 131 meters (430 feet) above sea level, overlooks three areas: Argentière, the plains of Siagne and la Napoule. Its unobstructed views offer spectacular sights of the Estérel massif, Iles de Lérin known as Ste. Marguerite and St. Honorat, and the Baie of Cannes. A gently sloping path leads you through pine and mimosa trees, and at the summit, the ruins of the old fortress await.
Get in a round of golf
Opened in 1891, Mandelieu’s golf course is one of the oldest and busiest in Europe, and the premier course in France. There are actually three courses to challenge different ability levels, covering 74 hectares, each with over 4,000 umbrella pines. During your round of golf, you will cross the Siagne Riviere on a ferry boat…an unusual feature! If you play during the winter season – as many do – you will be enveloped by the scents of pine trees and mimosa flowers.
Diving Sites
Underwater diving (Sous-marine) is a wonderful way to discover and enjoy the exotic richness of Mandelieu’s marine life. Diving clubs offer safe training and excursions year-round.
The Massif de l’Esterel
The Mediterranean coastal mountain range is a rich red color due mainly due to the presence of rhyolite in the volcanic rocks. Deep ravines and oak forests cover the rugged massif. Beware: The highest point of the massif is Mont Vinaigre 618 metres (over 2,000 feet), a challenge to many visitors.
The massif covers an area of 320 km² (123.5 square miles) of which 130 km² (50 square miles) are protected by the Forêt domaniale de l’Esterel (National Forest). Hiking and mountain biking trails are plentiful. If you prefer a beach-level road, take the Corniche d’Or which connects the coast and Île d’Or, Saint-Raphaël and Cannes.
Local Beaches
In Mandelieu-la-Napoule, you will find nine public beaches, which are small and rarely crowded. Rague and Raguette spread before a rocky spur and require following a twisted path through rock. The Plage de Robinson is the largest, spreading beside the mouth of the Siagne Riviere. This beach, with pristine sand, is protected by breakwaters that block offshore currents. There are also three private beaches where you can rent you loungers and parasols, and each beach is close to a restaurant.
Pointe de l’Aiguille
At the headland just past Théoule-sur-Mer, the red Estrerel slopes plunge into the sea. This section of the coastline is preserved as a park. No boats are allowed, making the coves excellent for snorkelling. A natural rock arch stands on the west side, created though millennia by the pounding of the sea.
Grasse
The perfume capital of France, Grasse is where most of the mimosa flowers from Mandelieu-la-Napoule are distilled and turned into highly desirable perfumes by expert ‘noses’. Exclusive perfumeries like Fragonard, Molinard and Galimard share some of their magical secrets and entice you into creating your own personal scent…yours forever, for a price! The town is also worth a wander.
John Pekich is an author, educator, actor and longtime francofile with a special affinity for the South of France. He may be reached at cal20j01@aol.com.
