The Beaujolais Châteaux Wine Route

Beguiling Beaujolais is a place to unwind, enjoy the stunning countryside and visit enchanting castles to sip divine wines says Janine Marsh as she follows the Beaujolais Châteaux Wine Route…

Beaujolais Châteaux Wine Route

There is an old saying that goes “three great rivers flow into Lyon – Saône, Rhône and Beaujolais wine.”

It’s just 25km north from the gastronomic city of Lyon to Villefranche-sur-Saône at the start of the magnificent Beaujolais vineyards, but it looks and feels completely different. It’s a rather secret part of France, the locals call it “little Tuscany” thanks to its hilly villages with ancient buildings of glowing golden stone. And in this unspoiled, green and lush part of France, you will find the most fabulous wines which have long supplied the Lyonnais who know a good wine when they taste it.

The Beaujolais wine route is well-known to those who visit, but there’s a less known route that crosses these rolling hills – the Beaujolais Châteaux Wine Route. It offers ample opportunities to discover the secrets of the vineyards, enjoy wine tasting sessions and unique experiences in the most stunning locations at almost a dozen Château domains.

Never one to shirk a challenge, especially where food and wine are involved, I followed the Beaujolais Châteaux route through the most beautiful countryside where iconic castles open their doors to those who have a ‘Carnet’ – a little travel book of exclusive visits. Luckily for me, my friend Coraline was the designated, non-drinking driver and as I only had one day to make my visits, I didn’t make it to all 9 castles though I did manage four visits comfortably, including tastings at all of them, and a long lingering lunch – they take their gastronomy seriously here.

First – get your Carnet de Route (download it from the Châteaux en Beaujolais website – link at the end of the article). Book your visits directly with each castle at least 48 hours in advance (email/phone), and mention that you have the Carnet. When you visit, get your Carnet stamped, as by doing so, at the second castle and subsequent visits you will get 10% off any purchases you make in the Château wine shops. At the 5th castle you visit – you’ll get a free bottle of wine.

*Cathedral-like wine cellar of the Château de la Chaize*

But the most important part of the Carnet are the exclusive visits it gives you access to. For instance, at the 17^th century Château de la Chaize, designed by Jules Hardouin-Mansart, Louis XIV’s favourite architect. The architecture is unmistakeably that of one of the major architects of Versailles – elegant and utterly gorgeous, surrounded by gardens designed by André le Nôtre, Louis XIV’s gardener, so beautiful you can’t help but think it looks as if it’s been transported from a fairy tale to the little village of Odenas at the foot of Mont Brouilly. You’ll get to visit the castle’s historic winery and cellar, and exclusive access to the underground cellar and vineyards.

The tasting includes three of the Chateau’s finest vintages. There’s a waiting list of up to a year for some of their wines which are matured in huge oak barrels in a 108m long cellar, the longest in Beaujolais. Their wines are amongst the best of the region and appear on the finest tables in the world including that of British Royal Family (Fleurie “La Chapelle des Bois”- yes, I did have a drop and it’s possible I have royal blood as I too like it very much!).

Château de Champ-Renard Beaujolais — *Château de Champ-Renard © Philippe Guilloud*

At Château Champ-Renard, which was founded in 1250, the carnet grants you an inside visit – literally, as you get the “Château Life” experience – a tour of the castle from its medieval rooms to the dungeons, a visit to the vat room, a wander in the stunning gardens, and a tasting of four fabulous wines (they’re all organic) paired with cheeses or chocolates.

Photo Janine Marsh — *Chocolate and wine pairing at Château Champ-Renard; Château de Corcelles wines*

At the 16th century Château de Corcelles, built on the site of an 11th century fortress, with the Carnet tour, you’ll visit the grounds and the Château where you can see paintings made with wine, and visit the chapel, dungeon, kitchens and enjoy a tasting of four excellent wines. It’s such a unique and special place and the tour is relaxed and welcoming.

Cellars of Château de Lachassange, Beaujolais — *Cellars of Château de Lachassange, the ‘angels share’ blackened evaporated spirits*

My final visit was to the Château de Lachassagne where I could have sat all day and soaked up the glorious views over the Saône Valley from the walled vineyards where you can take a walk as part of your Carnet tour. I managed to tear myself away for a final tasting of several wines, both red and white, in the cellar. Absolutely superb.

Dine while you wine

If you get peckish en route, you’re in luck, there’s plenty of feasting to be had alongside the wine. Stop off at pretty little villages like oingt, where the local café will for sure be serving classic French dishes to go with all those fabulous local wines and where you’ll rub elbows and clink glasses with the locals who all seem pretty happy to be residents of Beaujolais. And if you fancy staying overnight, several of the Châteaux offer accommodation on site.

How to get there: A train from Lyon to Villefranche-sur-Saone takes just 22 minutes. From Paris it’s around 2 hours. You can hire a bike or rental car in the town.

Download the Carnet de Route: chateauxenbeaujolais.fr

Discover more about Beaujolais: Beaujolais-tourisme.com/en

Janine Marsh is the author of several best-selling books about France and editor of The Good Life France magazine and website.