The Chateau de Gudanes from ruin to ravishing

Once upon a time, a beautiful castle in the far south of France was unloved and forgotten. Until someone came along and woke the sleeping beauty. Janine Marsh visits the Chateau de Gudanes ten years on…

In 2010, Karina and Craig Waters flew from their hometown of Perth in Australia to Paris, picked up a hire car and drove to a tiny village called Chateau Verdun in Ariège. They had dreamed of buying a little French cottage, something that they could visit for holidays each year, a lock-up and go home, easy to care for. Browsing the internet for properties one day, their 14-year old son came across a murky photo of a somewhat dishevelled chateau with a majestic mountain backdrop, and something about it made him tell his mum – and despite it looking a bit run down, something about it made her want to see it for herself.

Love at first sight

It wasn’t what she had in mind, but the image of the castle pulled at her heart strings. However, when Karina, a former accountant, and Craig, now a retired surgeon, stopped at the gates to the Chateau de Gudanes and peered through the overgrown garden it was a shock. The murky photos hadn’t done the decay justice.

“We couldn’t get past the first few rooms, there was so much rubble everywhere” says Karina. And yet they both fell in love with the castle there and then. “I can even pinpoint the moment it happened. In what is now the Rose Salon, amidst the tons of rubble we could see a red marble fireplace, and on the corner was an engraved heart. In that moment” says Karina “we felt that so much love had gone into this place, we wanted to give it back its heart.”

Ten years of renovation

The chateau turned out to be a Class 1 Listed Historic Monument which made just about everything a challenge. Buying it took three years. Getting permission to do anything from clearing the rubble to repairing the floors can take years – and very little can be done without permission from several authorities.

But Karina was determined to bring this beautiful castle back to life. Since 2013, when she became its “caretaker”, she has taken on the monumental task of restoring the neglected rooms and the gorgeous gardens to their former glory.

“The first job was clearing out the tons of rubble. The roof had fallen in, trees were growing out of the top.” But even getting it cleared wasn’t easy. “Most renovation teams took one look at the job and ran.” But eventually it got done, and it was only as the rooms started to be cleared that the couple discovered that some rooms had medieval beams and quite a lot of the Renaissance décor was salvageable. Karina was hooked. There was no going back now. Her role was going to be much more involved than she’d ever imagined.

For the first couple of years Karina worked alone, overseeing every element of the restoration, spending half her time back home in Perth with her family and half in France, before her daughter Jas, joined her.

“I came out for a holiday one year, and there was mum, sleeping in a tent, wrapped up in layers of clothes trying to keep dry and warm. I realised that she needed help, that this wasn’t an indulgence, it isn’t a trophy or a hobby, it’s a vocation and it’s not just about creating a home, but it’s about preserving, restoring – saving the castle and its extraordinary history for the future. In the walls are memories and love, and our memories and love for the last ten years are there now.”

And for all who visit, a little of their hearts are left there too – including mine.

Because ten years on, the Chateau de Gudanes is transformed. Karina and Jas host workshops for visitors to come and experience the castle lifestyle, discover its history, eat the most amazing food, and explore the gorgeous local area.

A decade of love and renovation

I’ve followed the fascinating story of the restoration of the Chateau de Gudanes since Karina first became its guardian, after a French friend who lives in Ariège emailed me about “a crazy Australian lady who is trying to restore a castle, an epic task, but oh you should see the castle – it’s dazzling.” I contacted Karina and she agreed that I could share her story.

It quickly became clear just how incredible her lifelong goal to restore the building was. The story went viral, capturing the imaginations of millions. Over the years, Karina has won a legion of fans who follow the castle’s journey via her Instagram page, a best-selling book and her website: chateaugudanes.com. And when Karina got permission to run workshops for paying guests, I was thrilled to be able to see the castle for real.

The utterly gorgeous Chateau de Gudanes

Driving up to the now world-famous approach to the Chateau de Gudanes, we entered through the grand front doors on a rather gloomy day, clouds hung low, almost caressing the roof and towers of the castle. Edith Piaf’s haunting voice rang out “Je ne regrette rien.” I had goosebumps.

The original castle that stood here dates to the 13^th century but much of it was rebuilt between 1741 and 1750 by Ange-Jacques Gabriel, architect to King Louis XIV (his creations include the Petit Trianon at Versailles and the Bourse in Bordeaux). The owner of the castle one Louis Gaspard de Salles, Marquis de Gudanes, head of Toulouse Parliament, nicknamed the “King of the Pyrenees” because he had an enormous fortune from his ownership of iron mines in Ariège, was responsible for its beauty.

“I like to think that the Marquis was walking along the corridors of Versailles and bumped into Gabriel and said to him ‘hey can you come and soup up my grandfather’s medieval castle’ says Karina. “I reckon that’s how he came on board and turned it from a rather dour building to a pleasure palace of beauty and elegance.”

The castle’s fortunes after the French Revolution were never so good. Sold on several times, it became a school camp in the 1950s, was bought by a business conglomerate and then became the Waters family home.

A castle coming back to life

The castle had 94 rooms, and all were in a bad way. In the music room, giant mushrooms were growing up the walls on which real 18 carat gold leaf had once been used to gild the sculpted panels and carvings that represented the Sun King, Louis XIV – Gaspard de Salles had spared no expense. Algae from the damp conditions caused by the roof caving in had spread everywhere. Fireplaces were hanging off the walls and floors had collapsed.

Now those rooms are coming back to life. Through the windows, though it was the middle of spring, the snow glistened on the peaks of the mountains. Clouds hung low almost blanketing the windows. The sound of a waterfall can be heard.

I felt as if I’d stepped into a time tunnel and was wandering the corridors of the past.

Blood, sweat and tears

Jas (who studied art history) and Karina have done a huge amount of research to bring the castle back to its most authentic self. They’ve worked with French experts from Versailles, historic authorities, and with teams of experts from around the world to help and guide them, restoring the medieval beams, preserving the gilding, the frescoes, wooden panels, marble fireplaces and other historic features.

A local plasterer in his 80s came out of retirement to help them as the skills needed are no longer commonly known. Guests are encouraged to join in the supervised restoration in one of the dining rooms where you can help with the painstaking work of restoring the 18^th century wall frescoes – it’s a fascinating experience, and a privilege to play a tiny part in the castle’s awakening.

The bedrooms are exquisite, think antique beds, chandeliers, and antique furnishings. In the hall an impressive chandelier gives off a candlelit glow that makes you sigh it’s so gorgeous. In the cellars, where in the 13^th century, Cathars hid from their oppressors, there are rooms that are yet to be explored.

Stay at the Chateau de Gudanes – and-9 feel like royalty

“When you stay here you become a part of the family” says Karina. The close-knit team includes top pastry chef Jennifer Pogmore and chef Tracey Valentinawood who produce the most fabulous feasts. The team love to share their favourite places, and you get to visit the area – places like Camon, officially one of the prettiest villages in France and medieval Mirepoix.

Villages here, including Chateau Verdun, have an alpine flavour. Though the area is rather secret, those in the know come for the rejuvenating mountain waters. Prehistoric remains are not rare. Jagged mountains and verdant valleys, castles and forests make you feel as if you’re entering Game of Thrones territory – it is a dramatic and majestic landscape. Plus, the area is a treasure chest of antique shopping and Karina shares her favourite antique spots with guests.

But always, it’s the Chateau de Gudanes that’s the star. “It’s in my soul” says Karina. “I’m surrounded by the most beautiful nature, and the house is full of happy animals. The castle has an atmosphere that you can’t explain in words. There is a life in the building, in the foundations and the walls. It’s love made visible.”

Head to the Chateau de Gudanes website where you can book your workshop stay: chateaugudanes.com

Janine Marsh is the author of several internationally best-selling books about France. Her latest book How to be French – a celebration of the French lifestyle and art de vivre, is out now – a look at the French way of life.