The most beautiful villages of the Auvergne region

There are places in France that can feel like a place that time forgot. Photographer Jeremy Flint explores the most beautiful villages of the Auvergne region.

Auvergne is a land of outstanding nature, the Chaîne des Puys (some 80 volcanoes) is a UNESCO listed World Heritage Site, there are lakes, forests and castles; sheep and cows roam the soft rolling pastured meadows and charming medieval towns and villages with Romanesque churches dot the landscape. Exploring its little-known wonders by car is one of the best ways to discover this area of stunning natural beauty and rich cultural heritage.

Salers, Cantal

Salers is officially one of France’s most beautiful villages, and one of 11 classified Plus Beaux Villages de France in Auvergne. Home to the 13^th century church of Saint-Mathieu, carved out of lava stone, Salers has magnificent medieval turreted architecture and cobblestone streets that take you back to the Middle Ages. This handsome village in the hills is also known for its breed of hardy, mahogany-coloured cows who produce delicious Salers cheese, a favourite of King Louis XIV, and which is said to have been produced in the region for at least 2000 years.

Tournemire, Cantal

South of Salers in the Doire valley, Tournemire is another fine example of France’s most beautiful villages. Perched on a hillside, visitors can enjoy the well-preserved Chateau d’Anjony, which was built around 1430 by Louis d’Anjony, one of Joan of Arc’s companions, stunning medieval houses, the Gorges de la Jordanne and immersive hiking routes through the surrounding natural beauty.

Puy Mary, Cantal

*Countryside near Puy Mary © Jeremy Flint*

Head east towards Murat, the road from Salers is one of the most beautiful in Cantal, taking you through a scenic landscape with jaw-dropping views of the Cantal massif (a hiker’s paradise) to the summit of the 1783m high Puy Mary, a ‘Grand Site of France’, Europe’s largest volcano and extinct for 2 million years. The Pas de Peyrol ascent is a favourite climb of the Tour de France – the highest crossroads in the Massif Central mountain range at an altitude of 1588 metres.

Murat, Cantal

*Church of St Pierre de Bredons, near Murat © Jeremy Flint*

Murat is a picturesque medieval town and classified ‘Petite Cité de Caractère’ (small town of character) at the foot of the Rocher de Bonnevie (Bonnevie Rock) which is topped by a statue of Our Lady of Haute-Auvergne. Climb the hill for 360° views of the Cantal Volcano and the magnificent stone-roofed houses below, a characteristic of the region. Wander the old town and soak in the sites including the Collegiate Church of Our Lady and the consular house, one of Murat’s gems with its Renaissance façade made of sculpted stone. And don’t miss the nearby spectacular 12^th century Saint-Pierre de Bredons church surrounded by mountains.

Saint-Flour, Haute-Loire

Continuing east, the spectacular hill-top town of Saint-Flour is a must-visit. Split into two, Saint-Flour’s upper part was built on a lava flow that solidified 4 million years ago. The town hosts a wealth of architectural wonders including a beautiful medieval centre, ramparts, fortifications, St Peter’s Cathedral, and the 14^th century La Halle aux Blés, a church converted to art exhibition space. The views are even better from the bridges of the lower part of Saint Flour. Here reclusive women once lived in a tower on the bridge to pray for protection of the town. The nearby Garabit viaduct railway bridge is another marvellous feat of engineering, built by Gustave Eiffel and in use from 1884 to 2009!

Le Puy-en-Velay, Haute-Loire

Le Puy-en-Velay at night © Jeremy Flint — *Le Puy-en-Velay at night. From early July to mid September the town puts on a spectacular light show from dusk to midnight © Jeremy Flint*

Le Puy-en-Velay, built on volcanic slopes, is renowned for its spectacular skyline of three imposing rock pillars topped by the 10th-century chapel of Saint-Michel d’Aiguilhe, a popular pilgrimage site for centuries and visited by 13 French Kings including Charlemagne and St Louis; a statue of the Virgin Mary erected in 1860 which is a whopping 22.5m high and weighs 835 tons; plus the UNESCO-listed 12th century Romanesque Cathédrale Notre-Dame du Puy. Surrounded by three Natural Regional Parks, the area is famous for the green lentils grown here. In 951, the archbishop Godescalc set off from Le Puy-en-Velay to Santiago de Compostela. As the first French pilgrim, he mapped the route that is still taken today.

Blesle, Haute-Loire

Medieval Blesle, another plus beaux village with a rich history, most famous for its Abbey which was founded by Countess Ermengade who set up a Benedictine Community for women in 849 – but only for women who had at least four generations of aristocracy on their father’s side! In the heart of a valley, the town has well-preserved architecture including a Romanesque church, and medieval timber framed houses and renaissance facades. It’s also home to an unusual museum in a former 16^th century hospital – the Musée de la Coiffe et du Costume Traditionnel exhibition includes several hundred bonnets and hats of the Auvergne style. The small hotel La Bougnate in the heart of the village provides a great place to stay, eat and relax. Enjoy the fresh air and fabulous food from the Michelin listed restaurant on the shaded terrace with classic regional dishes made from local products, like fois gras and duck with honey sauce.

Lavaudieu, Haute-Loire

On the banks of the River Senouïre, Lavaudieu is a delightful traditional (Plus Beaux) village, set in rolling countryside. It has a unique character and charm with its Benedictine abbey that houses a remarkable Romanesque cloister. Just a few kilometres away Brioude, in what was called the “Valley of God”, is another Romanesque treasure – the Basilica of Saint-Julien Basilica has a remarkable mosaic floor, well-preserved Byzantine-style frescoes, and notable artworks (guided tours only).

Issoire, Puy-de-Dôme

Visit pretty Issoire to buy the region’s best cheeses from the 3rd generation fromagerie Houlbert cheese shop before gazing at the 12^th century Romanesque Church of Saint-Austremoine and scaling the ancient clock tower for magnificent 360-degree views.

Montpeyroux, Puy-de-Dôme

Just to the north, the picturesque medieval hilltop village of Montpeyroux in Puy de Dome is a wonderful sight from afar. Built on a hill on the banks of the Allier River, many artists and artisans have lived in the labyrinth of alleys lined with stone houses built by rich local wine merchants of the past. Climb to the top of the 33-metre medieval keep (‘Donjon’) to admire the views and enjoy the many artisan and craft shops in the village.

Puy de Dôme

Finally, wander the land of volcanoes along the UNESCO World Heritage Chaîne des Puys with its domes, craters, and breath-taking views. At the Puy de Dome volcano not far from the capital of the region, Clermont-Ferrand, you can hike to the top (about 2 hours) via the marked, former 6km long Muletiers Path of which it’s said was the route taken by pilgrims on donkeys to reach the Roman Temple of Mercury at the top. Or take the 15-minute train ride to the summit, relax and enjoy the views.

Cheese route

Auvergne’s ‘Route des Fromages AOP d’Auvergne’ is irresistible for any cheese lover and a superb way to enjoy the local gastronomy. Many producers and breeders open their doors to visitors, offering a journey to the heart of cheesemaking and the very best of Auvergne’s cheeses. La Grange de la Haute Vallée farm near Murat produces four of the five AOP (appellation d’origine protégée) cheeses of Auvergne – Blue d’Auvergne, Salers, Cantal and blue Fourme d’Ambert. To obtain the Protected Designation of Origin (AOP label) Allain, the owner must adhere to specific production criteria related to the geographical origin, milk sourcing, and manufacturing process. The AOP letters guarantee ancestral know-how, expertise, and high-quality cheese.

At the farm, 40 Montbéliarde cows graze on natural meadows. Cantal and Salers cheese are made from raw milk, and it takes 400 litres to make 40kg. Three types of Cantal cheese are made: a young (aged for 1-2 months), a medium (aged 3-7 months) and old (aged 8 months). Salers cheese takes 7 months to age and has the consistency of a mature cheddar. The blue cheeses have less milk and are more creamy, soft, and slightly salty, spending 5 days in the ageing room and 28 days in a cave to mature. The Blue d’Auvergne is stronger, and pairs best with a sweet white wine, delicious!

Saint Nectaire fans will love the GAEC of Thrones farm in Saint-Diéry. Their AOP (Protégée – a sign of quality) cheese is made from the unpasteurised milk of 51 cows who feed on flowers. Using traditional production processes of renneting, curdling, moulding, salting and pressing, the cheese is then matured in a cave. In the middle ages, peasants paid the local lord in cheese known as rye cheese as it was matured on rye straw, but it took the name Saint-Nectaire when cheese loving Louis XIV took a real fancy to it.

This lovely, pickled in the past and not well-known part of France is ideal for those who love nature, historic villages and gastronomy.

Find out more at: auvergnerhonealpes-tourisme.com/en

Jeremy Flint is an award-winning professional photographer and writer specialising in travel, landscape and location photography.