The winter flavours of Provence

Bordered by the Mediterranean Sea, the snow-peaked Alps and the mighty Rhone river, Provence–Alpes–Cote d’Azur is a sun-drenched region with a gentle climate and generous soil. Set at the crossroads of Europe and the Mediterranean, it offers a unique blend of cultural genres, reflected in its wonderfully simple and healthy cuisine. At the heart of the area, Vaucluse is the perfect place for a culinary stroll through the flavours and savours of Provence especially in winter, when local specialities take centre stage…

Truffles

Vaucluse is the main producer of black truffles in France. These mysterious fungi, nicknamed “black diamonds”, have a unique and pungent aroma and give a savoury fragrance to dishes.

Head to the market in Carpentras, at the foot of the giant of Provence, Mont Ventoux, on a Friday morning from mid-November to the end of March and in the courtyard of the Hôtel-Dieu, you’ll find a wholesale truffle market, where canneries, chefs and brokers come from far and wide in search of the perfect truffle. At 9 a.m. the whistle is blown, and transactions can begin. But don’t leave it too late, when the harvest is poor, the final whistle can be heard as early as 9:15 a.m.

There’s also a weekly Saturday truffle market in the medieval town of Richerenches. Held since 1923, this is one of the largest truffle markets in Europe. Rumour has it that 700 kg of truffles are sold there every Saturday morning in peak season (January-February). The truffles are sold to brokers from all over France directly from the trunks of cars. There are also young mycorrhizal trees (so you can grow your own truffles), olive oils flavoured with truffles or other products made from the precious mushroom whose scent invades the village streets.

There are also truffle markets in Vaison-la-Romaine and Valréas.

And why not pluck your own truffle from the ground on a truffle treasure hunt accompanied by a dog with a great sense of smell. It’s enormous fun and very satisfying. (Find out more from Vaucluse tourist office).

You’ll find truffle flavoured dishes on the menu all over the region including ‘Brouillade aux truffes’ – scrambled eggs flavoured with the black diamond!

And now for something sweet…

Winter brings sweet things to Vaucluse including the legendary Berlingot bonbons of Carpentras made in every colour of the rainbow, using candied fruit syrup. Or how about a nibble of locally made nougat – one of the must-eat foods of the traditional Provencal 13 Christmas desserts.

Candied fruit is a real speciality of Vaucluse, and another of the 13 desserts of Christmas. Head to Apt, the capital of crystallised fruit in the area for a tastebud ticking experience at La Maison du fruit confit, where you can discover an array of eye-catching multicoloured jars, an exhibition space and a tearoom. It’s a must-see!

And, in Avignon, city of the Palace of the Popes, try the Papalines d’Avignon, liqueur-filled chocolates that are memorable in a town where artisan chocolateries are plentiful. Filled with a local sweet liqueur made from herbs at the Châteauneuf du Pape distillery, the sweets are traditionally crimson coloured – like the robes of cardinals. These delicious chocolates are a firm favourite with the locals – try one and you’ll see why!

Fishy dishies, veggie treats, delicious flavours

Head to the postcard-pretty town of L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, famous for its antiques shops and Sunday flea markets. Explore its medieval streets and follow the ancient Waterwheel Circuit (there are about 15 remaining waterwheels around the village), admire the stunning baroque church and enjoy lunch at a waterside café. A favourite dish on menus in restaurants here is the local trout served with delicious seasonal vegetables from the region.

Vaucluse is like a giant garden producing fruit and vegetable treasures year round, and in winter it’s the green and white salads – chard, celery and spinach that come to the fore.

Provencal cuisine is wonderfully varied, with an abundance of fresh fruit and vegetables, olive oil, fish and game, flavoured with truffle, herbs and spices. Anchovies, dried sausages and smoked hams, wild mushrooms, patés and jams made with summer fruits – it’s delicious, hearty food that warm the soul.

Winter never tasted so good!