From troglodyte caves to a monumental Benedictine abbey and picturesque medieval streets, history abounds in Brantôme-en-Périgord in Dordogne, southwest France. Nicknamed the Venice of Périgord Vert thanks to its watery charms, find out what to see and do in Brantôme.
Shaped by water and time
The site was first inhabited in the 5th century by monks who carved out troglodyte shelters along the Dronne’s banks, protected by cliffs and sustained by river water for drinking and agriculture. These ancient dwellings can be explored from the abbey courtyard, including one with scenes of the Last Judgement carved into the stone, thought to date back to the Middle Ages. Over the centuries, the caves have served many purposes – from monastic retreats and burial chambers to venues for modern art exhibitions and shops selling regional products.
The abbey was founded in the 8th century by the Frankish king Charlemagne, who donated relics of Saint Sicarius, one of the infant boys slaughtered by Herod. This brought pilgrims and prosperity, boosted by river trade and tolls on passing boats.
At the northern end of the abbey on a rocky outcrop, the Romanesque bell tower is said to be one of the oldest in France, dating from the 11th century. Climb to the top for sweeping views of the town and river. Inside the church, gilded wooden panels depict key moments in the abbey’s history, including Charlemagne’s donation of the relics, and there are also remains of the 15th-century cloisters. Inside the abbey, the Fernand Desmoulin Museum displays the French spiritual artist’s work from the early 1900s.
The abbey has been destroyed and rebuilt several times, suffering during Viking raids and the Hundred Years’ War. In the 16th century, the abbot Pierre de Bourdeille – known as ‘Brantôme’ – is said to have saved the abbey from Huguenot attack by inviting the invaders to a feast instead! During the French Revolution, the abbey was secularised and became the property of the city.
Riverside charm
At the abbey’s southern end you can see the elegant Renaissance Pavilion and the Tour St-Roch, part of the original defences. Nearby, the tranquil Grand Jardin or Jardin des Moines was once the abbey’s private garden.
A highlight of the town’s riverscape is the Pont Coudé, whose name describes its unusual ‘elbow’ shape – there are lovely views of the town and abbey from the bridge, while beneath it, boats and paddleboarders glide gently by. Adjacent to the bridge, an old stone mill is now home to the Michelin-starred restaurant Le Moulin de l’Abbaye, offering fine dining in a stunning riverside setting.
Cross the bridge to discover a village full of charm – stone houses with flower-decked balconies and riverside gardens, medieval and Renaissance buildings, a former civil and military hospital, the Notre-Dame church, a convent and a metal footbridge, designed with input from the Eiffel workshop in Paris. Pick up a map from the tourist office to explore the town’s architectural gems.
Brantôme is also known for its peaceful gardens and parks. The aptly named Jardins Tranquilles provide a serene retreat on a small river island, full of flowers, trees and fountains, while the Alaije Botanical Garden contains around 800 plant species, including rare vegetables and medicinal herbs.
A gentle riverside walk is one of Brantôme’s simple pleasures. For those who prefer the water itself, the calm River Dronne – one of France’s least polluted – is ideal for canoeing, kayaking and paddleboarding, or enjoy an electric boat cruise, complete with historical commentary.
Gastronomic delights
The liveliest time to visit Brantôme is on Fridays, when the weekly market spreads across the town centre and riverside, offering everything from fresh produce and cheese to crafts and clothing. It’s a perfect opportunity to sample local specialities like truffles, foie gras, walnuts and strawberries. From June to September there’s also a Tuesday farmers’ market, while from December to February there’s a truffle market.
Artisan shops and galleries dot the town, showcasing ceramics, textiles, paintings, jewellery, wine and other local products – ideal for finding a unique souvenir or gift.
Dining in Brantôme is a delight, with a range of traditional French restaurants and riverside brasseries. Local favourites include Charbonnel, Le Saint-Sicaire, Côté Rivière and La Table d’Émilie. The cuisine is proudly regional: confit de canard or magret, truffle-infused dishes, and goat cheese and walnut salads.
Each July, Brantôme hosts a medieval festival complete with knights, jousting, traditional costumes, markets and concerts. Summer also features food festivals, night markets and antique fairs, while winter brings Christmas markets and illuminations.
Brantôme is a timeless town, rich in history and full of authentic French charm. The slow passage of the river and the traditional lifestyle invite you to slow down and relax. Whether you’re staying a few days or using it as a base to explore the Périgord Vert, it offers the perfect blend of culture, nature and bon vivre.
What to see near Brantôme
An official Plus Beaux Détour destination, Brantôme is at the heart of the Périgord Vert region and is the gateway to the Périgord-Limousin Regional Natural Park, a haven for lovers of the Great Outdoors. A short drive away you’ll find the chateaux of Bourdeilles and Jumilhac. St-Jean-de-Côle, one of France’s Plus Beaux Villages, has a lovely medieval bridge and flower-filled streets, while a little further away, the Dordogne capital Périgueux offers Roman ruins, a domed cathedral and plentiful shops, restaurants and markets.
Karen Tait is a freelance journalist and editor with a penchant for France!
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