What to see and do in Le Cannet near Cannes

*View over the Bay of Cannes from Le Cannet © Le Cannet Tourism*

Visit Le Cannet and discover a beguiling hub of art, history and gastronomy where la dolce vita meets art de vivre. Here’s what to see and do in Le Cannet near Cannes.

Cannes is renowned for its French Riviera glitz and glamour, the famous red carpet rolled out for the swanky film festival, expensive shops, polished promenades, and beaches where people go to see and be seen. But, a short way away, up a winding hill just two kilometres from the beaches, sits Le Cannet, which until 1774 was part of Cannes. Here life has a quite different feel. Arriving early one morning, when the shutters were just creaking open and the scent of fresh bread drifted through the narrow lanes, luring me to join a queue at the boulangerie, a local told me, “Ici, on vit doucement,” here, we live gently. And that, I soon discovered, is the essence of Le Cannet.

Le Cannet – the ‘crown’ of Cannes

Le Cannet began as a humble hillside settlement in the Middle Ages, its terraces carved into the landscape above Cannes like a crown. For centuries, it was shaped by agriculture – olive groves, figs, and vines, the city’s park – Tivoli Gardens, is where the former fields once were. In the 15^th century, a new chapter unfolded. 140 Italian families crossed the nearby border seeking work and a better life. They brought with them building skills, culinary traditions, and a vibrant sense of community that still echoes in the town’s rhythms today.

*Mural on the wall, Place Bellevue, an homage to the 140 Italian families who settled in Le Cannet*

Then came the artists. Chief among them was Pierre Bonnard, who lived here for 27 years. Captivated by the golden light and Mediterranean hues, he painted prolifically until his death in 1947. From his home, Le Bosquet, nestled on a hillside looking over the Bay of Cannes, Bonnard would climb the seven hills of Le Cannet to be inspired by the beauty of the scenery, his paintings full of colour and light, prompting Henri Matisse to call him “one of the greatest painters among us.” At the heart of Le Cannet’s cultural life is the Musée Bonnard, which partners with the Musée d’Orsay in Paris and hosts regular temporary exhibitions. It’s the only museum in the world dedicated entirely to Bonnart. Pop to the tourist office to pick up a map to follow in the footsteps of Bonnard and discover his most beautiful landscapes.

Bonnard Museum, Vue du Cannet, painting by Pierre Bonnard, 1938-1942 — *Bonnard Museum, Vue du Cannet, Pierre Bonnard, 1938-1942*

Lose yourself in the old quarter, where cobbled streets twist like ribbons between the pastel façades of Belle Epoque houses. Vibrant pink and purple bougainvillaea spills over balconies, and tiny squares open unexpectedly, revealing views that stretch all the way to the sea.

*Pierre Bonnard by Big Ben in Rue des Prés, Le Cannet and French playright Victorien Sardou, Place Bellevue, whose family came from Le Cannet*

Take a guided tour to discover Le Cannet’s secrets and surprises (the tourist office offers free guided tours). My guide Karine, a former France volleyball player, took me on a gentle stroll and told me of the town’s rich history, how the Via Julia Augusta Roman road ran through the town, that Saint Honorat came here in the 5th century, and how it was believed that if you gave land to the church you would go to heaven and locals worked on the land for the monks. When plague decimated the south of France. It was the monks who encouraged Italian families to come here and work the fields.

As we walked, Karine pointed out doorways marked by a Maltese Cross – “the Templars used to have secret reunions here, and the cross marks their meeting places” she tells me. Wide stairs lead to the upper town – “built for donkeys to go up and down.” It’s a fascinating tour – and completely free!

A town of art and artisans

Pop into the Tobiasse Chapel, a former 14th century chapel decorated by artist Théo Tobiasse – his theme “Life is a celebration” is an explosion of vibrant colour. Le Cannet’s street art is monumental – from a giant image of Bonnard to a monumental fresco at the fabulous Maison Bellevue restaurant called the Heritage Orange Tree which represents the 140 founding families who came to Le Cannet from Italy.

The town has long attracted artisans who prefer quiet inspiration over Riviera glamour, says Le Cannet’s head of tourism Walid Chaabani. And in Rue Saint-Sauveur, it’s easy to see why the town has been awarded the ‘City and Crafts’ label, this long winding street is chock full of small ateliers where artists and artisan still work by hand, painters capturing the same light that enchanted Bonnard, ceramicists shaping earthy, sun-toned pieces, a cabinet maker, a seamstress who creates the most beautiful childrens clothes, books, bags and beautiful things.

Nicolas Canet at no. 258 makes delicate santon accessories – trees, shepherds huts, gardens and more for Provencal nativity scenes. A former architect, he studied to become a priest, and says he followed his passion for santons in Le Cannet, “I did it my way” he smiles.

Artisan Meggan at Wild Minutiae creates ethereal beaded jewellery that is so covetable, you’ll struggle to leave her boutique without taking something home to love forever.

There are specialist vintage shops and bijou cafés dotted in between the artists studios and it’s easy to spend a few hours browsing here.

There are lots of excellent restaurants, a weekly market and terrfic food shops in Le Cannet – whatever you do, don’t miss boulangerie/café Mimi Faktory – the best madeleines I’ve ever had, made by chef/owner Sylvain Mathy, a French National Champion of Patisserie. Cheese lovers will love fromagerie Magasin Mons, and there’s a great Tuesday morning street market.

“Le Cannet’s culinary scene reflects its Franco-Italian soul” says Walid. “Menus feature daube provençale alongside fresh pasta.” At La Maison Bellevue restaurant in Place Bellevue, sun beams dance across tables shaded by leafy trees, a slight breeze comes up from the sea. With a view over the Bay of Cannes from the terrace where a tinkling fountain cools the air, here they serve the freshest fish and authentic Mediterranean cuisine, and for me, this is a true taste of art de vivre and the perfect place to while away a few hours just being in the moment.

Le Cannet’s most famous chef, Bruno Oger has two restaurants, the 2 Michelin star Villa Archange with its world famous cuisine (just 10 minutes from the Croissette), and the Bistrot des Anges next door which is not starred but has a fabulous (less expensive) menu.

Despite its proximity to Cannes, Le Cannet remains refreshingly under the radar. It’s a place that draws you in; its French elegance mixed with Italian warmth gives it a distinctive charm with its sun-dappled streets and the echo of artists past and present. It’s a place to slow down, to look closer, to feel the light as much as see it.

For more information of what to see and do in Le Cannet – events, festivals, where to stay and eat: lecannet-tourisme.fr/en

Janine Marsh is an author and Editor of The Good Life France magazine and website.