Winter in Provence – dreamy not sleepy!

Gone are the summer crowds and the chirping cicadas, instead winter in Provence brings a soft sunshine to the cobbled streets of enchanting villages and to street markets where the aroma of truffles fills the air. Winter in Vaucluse is all about authenticity and charm says Janine Marsh.

Pernes-Les-Fontaines

My journey began in medieval Pernes-les-Fontaines, known locally as the village of forty fountains. Some 500 years ago, a spring was discovered close by which led to a craze for fountains until every neighbourhood had their own. The oldest dates to 1475 though most were remodelled or rebuilt in the 1700s.

Wander the streets here and you’ll soon notice that it’s not just fountains that proliferate – this town of arts and crafts is home to more than 25 artisans from book binders to glass spinners, potters to furniture designers. Follow the “Workshop Walk” to visit their shops not just for unique and wonderful things, but to learn about their rare skills. Clement Landy who works with gold leaf to create jewellery and sculptures, take a workshop with milliner Véronique Bahuaud who works with haute couture houses, and Didier Bougon, one of a handful of barrel organ makers left in France. And don’t miss the Belle Epoque style Maison Battu, where master pâtissier, chocolatier and glacier Jean Luc Battu and his son create the most delicious cakes, sweets, ice cream and chocolates – including Esprit Blanchard, chocolate and cinnamon (utterly irresistible).

Photo Janine Marsh — *Left: The magnificent Maison Battu; Right: Chef Olivier at Au Marché de Provence, authentic Provencal cooking at its best*

There are plenty of restaurants open year-round, (Les Filles À Maman is lovely) and there’s a weekly Saturday market. Whatever you do don’t skip lunch at Au Marché de Provence (74 Ave du Barriot), this cosy café run by husband-and-wife team Olivier and Marie, is loved by the locals and serves up generous portions of the most delicious food (their pain perdu is memorable).

There are plenty of cultural sites including the Ferrande Tower, as 12^th century monument with 12^th century Frescoes, costume, and bike museum, and the fascinating Maison Fléchier in a beautiful old mansion house which presents a quirky exhibition of folklore and traditions of Provence.

Tourist office: porteduventoux.com

Stay at: La Margelle a charming hotel in the centre of town

Richerenches

The scent of summer in Provence is lavender, in winter it’s truffles and nowhere celebrates the “black gold” more joyfully than Richerenches. From late November to early March, one of the largest truffle markets in France takes place every Saturday morning. It’s a rather clandestine affair, whispered prices, cash only, no haggling, but it’s rumoured some 300-400kg per week are sold here.

While there, you must indulge – and there are plenty of truffle-themed menus in all the restaurants, but for me the best was lunch at the town hall. Anyone can go (book well in advance for this popular event via Richerenches tourist office), you sit on long tables with strangers who quickly become friends not least due to the kir aperitif and help-yourself glasses of excellent Côtes du Rhône wine. Each week a different Association prepares and serves the lunch which consists of starter, main course, cheese, dessert, drinks and coffee – very inexpensive, and really, really good fun.

*Hunting for truffle treasure at Domaine Saint-Alban*

After a wander round the town, a former Knights Templar stronghold, and a visit to the Museum of Truffles and Wine, I couldn’t resist a spot of treasure hunting while in the area. Just 5 minutes by car from the centre of Richerenches, Domaine Saint-Alban offers daily truffle hunts by appointment (email or phone) from November to the end of March. Join Christian Allègre and his dog Holly on a truffle tour which includes a wine tasting of their own wines. We were joined by Christian’s 8-year-old grandson Gabin, a real chip off the old block who used his great grandfather’s 100-year-old pick to dig for truffles once Holly had snuffled them out. “You brought good luck” Christian told me as we headed back to his barn to warm up carrying half a kilo of truffles. We celebrated with outrageously delicious truffle butter slathered on bread with pesto and a glass of deep red wine.

There is a legend that a lord of Provence fell in love with a young girl who demanded the right to pick mushrooms in return for a kiss. He agrees and she picked all the truffles – and they got married!

Séguret

*Countryside in winter in Provence – silent vineyards and sleepy villages*

A 30-minute drive through glorious countryside, past silent vineyards lined with coppery-leaved hedges lit by soft sunlight, hilltop villages topped by castles and church towers, brings you to Séguret.

This pinch-yourself-it’s-so-pretty village is like a living painting with narrow cobbled streets, stunning views, ancient houses, tearooms, artists’ studios and restaurants. It’s famous for hosting a nativity scene on Xmas eve with real people rather than with the santons, little figurines, that every home and church in Provence displays.

Local santon maker Denis Voeux creates the figurines and scenery based on Seguret villagers and people he knows “that’s Renee” he says, “a man who used to take part in the living nativity, and that’s the old baker.” Santons are treasures he says, people don’t dispose of them, they hand them down from generation to generation, they’re precious. Visit his workshop for a demonstration and to start your own santon collection, Provence in miniature.

Stay at: Chateau de Taulignan a 17^th century castle with luxurious B&B rooms near Vaison-la-Romaine, an historic town with Roman remains, excellent shops and restaurants (don’t miss the Moulin à Huile, the food is exceptional).

Avignon

Avignon is wonderful year-round, and in winter it shimmers with festive decorations, but you can have the Pont d’Avignon and the vast Gothic Palace of the Popes almost to yourself! From the end of November through December there are pop up shops selling the work of artists, and the museums are open. Don’t miss the Petit Palais, the UNESCO-listed former cardinal’s palace (nephew of Pope John XXII) it’s like a mini-Louvre with an exceptional collection of paintings from the 13^th-16^th century. I had the entire place to myself and was absolutely bowled over by the beauty of the building and the collections.

When hunger calls, wander into Les Halles, Avignon’s covered market, it’s the perfect place for lunch with authentic restaurants serving local dishes. Book in advance or queue up with the locals to get a table as you savour the smell of garlic and onions caramelising, cheese stalls boasting 250 different types of cheese, fruit stalls, cakes, charcuteries and spices. At Cuisines centr’halles, feast on platters of the freshest seafood, creamy risotto, rich soups. You can even take a cooking class here. This is a real Avignon experience.

This is a city to truly indulge your senses – enjoy a refined afternoon tea at the 5* La Mirande Hotel, have dinner at the Carré du Palais, in an 18^th century mansion, you’ll find a bistro, wine bar, wine tasting cave, wine classes where you can learn about Rhône Valley Wines.

Or simply wander the streets and soak up the atmosphere, history and culture.

Think winter in Provence is sleepy? Not at all, but it is dreamy!

Find out what’s on year round in Vaucluse at: provenceguide.com

Janine Marsh is an author and the Editor of The Good Life France.