Cruise of the Christmas villages and markets of Alsace

Is there anywhere more christmassy? asks Janine Marsh as she takes a spectacularly festive cruise of the Christmas villages and markets of Alsace along the Rhine Canal – the answer is ‘no’!

A great way to experience the yuletide markets, the dazzlingly decorated towns and villages of the Alsace region – including Strasbourg, the “acknowledged capital of Christmas’, without having to drive and forego a glass of mulled wine, or navigate an unknown place in freezing fog, find parking spaces, or paying top dollar prices for hotels or worrying about trying to get a restaurant booking – is to see it by boat with family-run CroisiEurope – a leader in the cruise business.

Have yourself a merry little cruise-mas

CroisiEurope offer several Alsace Christmas market tours, and I took a four-day barge tour (maximum 22 people), which started and ended in Colmar, taking in one of the largest Christmas markets in the region, as well as smaller and truly captivating Christmas markets in beautifully decorated villages. Onboard, the chef-prepared meals are gastronomic and paired with fabulous wines – *all meals and drinks are included (including at the bar). The barge is decorated in style and the minute you board, the festive spirit grips you. It’s warm and cosy with really welcoming and friendly, English-speaking staff. As Christmas experiences go – discovering Christmas in Alsace this way is pretty unbeatable.

Swans in Alsace on a misty winter day — *Spotting swans in the winter wonderland from our boat!*

Cruising gently through stunning scenery during the mornings (no night time sailing), lazing in the steaming hot tub on deck, spotting storks nests, herons and swans, indulging in amazing food and being transported on excursions in the afternoons with an English speaking guide was so relaxing. Plus there are some fun onboard experiences including a delicious gingerbread tasting, and learning to make a napkin Christmas tree (yes I did go home with this new skill and surprised my family at the Christmas meal!).

Kaysersberg at christmas

In the heart of the vineyards, medieval Kaysersberg is fairytale pretty, and it’s easy to see how it won the renowned TV contest “Favourite Village of the French” in 2017. Wander the cobbled streets, ogle the half-timbered houses and admire the 13^th century castle. All the houses are festooned with Christmas decorations, and the guide told me that in the villages of Alsace, this is such a huge tradition and such an important part of their lives, that “if you don’t decorate for Christmas, your neighbours will come and knock on your door to make sure you’re ok!”

After a guided tour of the village to discover its history, we had plenty of time to visit the shops and Christmas market stalls hosted in little wooden chalets. It’s not a huge market, but it’s very authentic with some great arty, crafty gifts. There are vendors offering spiced vin chaud (mulled wine) and Bretzels, and I stumbled on the fabulous boulangerie Levain, 2 Michelin Star chef Olivier Nasti’s sourdough bakery in tiny rue de Tir. A finalist for best bakery in 2025, seek it out for the most delicious kugelhopfs and Christmas cookies.

Riquewihr

Riquewihr gives Kaysersberg a run for its money in the fairytale-pretty stakes. With undulating vineyards running right down to its wonky cobblestone streets, medieval houses and mansions, wineries, and gorgeous little gift shops galore, including a year-round Christmas decoration store – which gives you a clue as to why this village is a festive must-see – they take Christmas seriously here!

After a guided tour, there’s plenty of time to discover the Christmas market which is big and full of unique and fabulous things that are hard to resist, from exquisite decorations to clothes, toys, artisan made products, and if you’re feeling peckish – great steaming bowls of sauerkraut and sausages. There’s also time to wander the twinkling courtyards and alleyways. In this charming, authentic village, you can’t help but imagine Hansel and Gretel will come skipping along with shopping bags full of gingerbread!

Back on board, though we’d only known each other for 24 hours, guests who came from America, Britain, Canada and France, bonded over dinner and chatted about the day’s activities.

Colmar at Christmas

Now the thing with being possibly the most Christmassy place in the world, is that you’re not alone in wanting to experience the delights, and the grand Christmas market of the city of Colmar gets busy, especially on the weekends – so having a coach take us straight to the entrance to the market in the heart of the old town and pick us up afterwards to return to the barge was a real treat. Another treat was starting our guided visit at a Chocolate museum and indulging in a warming cup of thick, rich hot chocolate.

With time to appreciate the beautifully decorated houses, shops and streets, Christmas chalets with regional goods, homeware, gifts, and decorations, we gulped in the scent of mulled wine, roasting chestnuts and gingerbread that filled the air. As dusk fell, the lights twinkled and the setting sun made the colourful half-timbered houses glow softly.