What to see and do in La Rochelle in Winter: The maritime city, capital of the Charente-Maritime department, has a picturesque port, historic town, museums and feast worthy restaurants along with some of less well-known charms says Janine Marsh on a winter city break.
From the window of my hotel, I watched the rising sun cast the palest blush of pink over the tranquil historic port of La Rochelle and the grand stone towers that guard the port entrance just as they have done for centuries when a huge chain was hung between them and raised when required to prevent boats entering. French writer Rabelais would surely recognise the towers from his description in his 1532 best-seller Pantagruel (in his tale, the chain was used to tie a baby giant called Gargantua into a cradle!). A gentle breeze over the marina conducted an orchestral clinking from the boats moored there
La Rochelle has long been popular with visitors and in the summer months its café terraces and wide quaysides heave with tourists. But for me, a winter visit is a wonderful way to explore the town without crowds, discover its many museums, enjoy bracing walks along the beaches of the Atlantic Coast, browse the fabulous shops, dine at superb restaurants – and indulge in some of the area’s more secret charms.
What to see and do in La Rochelle in Winter
Wander inland from the old port which is lined with restaurants and bars, into the old town through the ornately sculpted 12th century Gate of the Grosse Horloge, once a defensive entry, it became a clock tower in the 15th century. Here you’ll find streets lined with white stone mansions and medieval arcades that house shops and cosy cafés.
Explore the city’s culture, starting at the Musée Maritime where you’ll discover 1000 years of La Rochelle’s history in a fascinating exhibition that includes an historic ship collection moored alongside the museum, featuring amongst others, a deep sea port tug, a classic 1950s trawler and a meteorological survey ship – the France 1, which also has a bar.
The Museum of the New World charts the maritime and historic links between France and the Americas – New Rochelle in the state of New York was founded in the 17th century by Huguenots who fled La Rochelle to seek religious freedom via those guardian towers, the gateway to America. For many of those travellers, one of the last sights of La Rochelle would have been the medieval lantern tower, its Gothic spire made it a landmark for ships. A lantern was added making it the world’s first rotating beam lighthouse. Visit all three towers for a delve into La Rochelle’s past.
There’s also the Natural History Museum, and the Aquarium which is a bit of a must. With more than 12,000 marine animals from jellyfish to sharks, it takes about two hours to do the whole thing and is wonderfully warm on a chilly day.
Take a walk on La Rochelle’s beaches, or head to the beach of Châtelaillon-Plage just a few minutes away. And don’t miss the excellent market Les Halles, held every morning, it’s been pleasing shoppers since the 1800s.
For a small city, La Rochelle packs a mighty gastronomic punch. The streets are filled with bars and bistros, cafés and restaurants spilling out onto cobbled streets and lining pretty squares. Most visitors head for the old Port, Vieux Port, and who can blame them. The restaurants here have fabulous views over the port and the ancient towers.
But head off the beaten track into the St Nicolas quarter, the former fishing district for authentic local cafes and bars, or to rue St-Jean-du-Pérot known locally as ‘food street’. It’s surprisingly easy to miss even though it’s right in the centre. Here you’ll find top class restaurants, like Bon Temps which serves superb classic French cuisine. At night this street bursts into life, brimming with bars and bistros, terraces filled with people and a friendly, festive atmosphere.
Three things to not miss in the area
There’s heaps to see close to La Rochelle, including the islands of Ré, Aix and Oléron which at this time of the year are largely free of tourists. All are great for hiking and cycling in winter when often the weather is mellow and sunny. Visit the towns of Rochefort, Royan, Saintes, and little villages like Plus Beaux Villages Talmont-sur-Gironde; Brouage where Napoleon kept an icehouse so he could serve his guests cool drinks; the oyster port of La Tremblade; and the enchanting, authentic port of Haumea, a small municipality of the greater Rochelle area and from where you have a magnificent view of the curved Île de Ré bridge.
Neighbouring Cognac offers a whole raft of experiences with many producers open for visits and Cognac tastings throughout winter.
Rejuvenate at a Spa
At La Grande Terrasse hotel and spa at the seaside resort of Châtelaillon-Plage enjoy a spa session that will make you feel relaxed, refreshed and rejuvenated. Winter blues begone – this resort paradise is just about perfect. Heated pools, sea view jacuzzis and seawater massages plus beauty, hairdressing and wellbeing treatments. I opted for a massage under a fine rain of warm sea water and emerged from the room feeling like a new woman. Aches and pains gone, skin as soft as a new-born baby.
With wonderful views over the Atlantic from the huge windows and three excellent restaurants on site – Le Bistro and Gaya have menus designed by Michelin starred chef Pierre Gagnaire, and Le Pertuis, with its bright and relaxing seaside inspired décor and fabulous seasonal menu, you can spend an entire day here. There are also two hotels – MGallery and Ibis Styles. You may spot film stars here from time to time as La Grande Terrasse supports the Film Festival in La Rochelle and celebrity guests stay there!
Make your own designer jewellery
Make your own designer jewellery at the Cognac Jewellery School with award-winning British jeweller and silversmith Jessica Hickman-Woolcott. Jessica’s half-day workshops, held at her home, the Château de Puyguiller in Cognac (about 1h 30m drive from La Rochelle), are fun, fascinating and you’ll make something unique and personal in a fully equipped bespoke classroom in the former forge of the chateau. Choose from a range of silver jewellery ideas including rings, necklaces, bracelets and earrings. Learning the basic arts of silversmithing including soldering I was thrilled with my classic bangle.
Make and shake a perfect Cocktail
Take a cocktail making class at Chateau Montifaud in Cognac. Learning the art of mixology is delicious fun while you discover the history and traditions of cognac – it’s a stirring experience! chateaumontifaud.com
Useful info:explore-cognac.com; nous-larochelle.fr/en
Where to stay: Maison du Monde Hotel overlooking the old port, with beautifully decorated rooms (my room overlooked the port) in a fabulous mansion.
How to get there:
The train station is within easy walking distance of the centre and TGV fast trains direct from Paris take from 2h34m.
Nearest airports: La Rochelle, Bordeaux
Janine Marsh is an author and the Editor of The Good Life France.
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