What to see and do in Les Sables d’Olonne

The Vendée department of west France has long been the country retreat of Parisians. It’s a diverse and ancient landscape with woodlands, wetlands, and stunning beaches. And right at the heart of the Vendée coast and the Côte de Lumière, is the bustling, sandy and sunny town of Les Sables d’Olonne says local and writer Lucy Pitts.

What to see and do in Les Sables d’Olonne

You arrive to 3 km of sandy beach in the form of the Grand Plage and a wide seafront promenade (Le Remblai) where cafés and restaurants spill onto the pavement and beach. Despite being on the Atlantic coast, it’s got a slightly Mediterranean feel and you only have to walk a short distance from the seafront to find yourself lost in narrow backstreets, yacht watching in one of its three marinas or resting in the shade of one of the town’s many interesting buildings.

The town dates back to 1218 although people lived in the area long before that. Salt marshes and vineyards were developed in the surrounding countryside 2,000 years ago and to the north of where Les Sables now stands, was the town of Olonne Sur Mer. It was occupied by the Romans, had a bustling port and was really the birthplace of the Pays d’Olonne. The harbour of Sables d’Olonne was developed in the 13^th century and was bustling with traders selling or transporting fish, wine and salt. By the 15^th century, Louis XI had commanded the creation of a fishing harbour which was to become France’s largest port for cod.

In the 19^th century, with the arrival of the train, Les Sables started to attract tourists for sea bathing and the fashionable and wealthy of the day flocked to the coast to enjoy this chic and stylish new resort with its casino. Many of the stunning buildings that you see now were built during this Belle Epoque.

The best way to get your bearings in Les Sables is with a stroll along Le Remblai and the Grand Plage. There are dozens of magnificent buildings and villas, spot the Statute of Ulysses (installed in 2024) on a rocky section of the beach and L’Estacade, a lighthouse built in 1874, one of several in the town.

As you wander, look out for Rue de l’Enfer (Hell Street), officially the narrowest street in the world, and L’île Penotte, a series of narrow streets where the houses and walls have been decorated with dozens of seashell mosaics inspired by mythology, fairy tales and folklore.

A main reason for visiting this part of France is the stunning beaches, and if the 3 km of the sheltered, south-facing Grand Plage isn’t enough you, there are dozens of other beaches within easy reach. There are plenty of water sports from wave walking, to surfing, kayaking, jet-skiing, kite surfing, sailing and paddle boarding, and in the summer, you can hire beach tents and deck chairs. There are also restaurants on the beach if you want to spend the whole day sunbathing and mucking about in the sea.

If you need a break from the sun, there is plenty to explore in the town including the Musée du Coquillage, dedicated to shellfish and the Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, which is housed in the former Sainte-Croix Benedictine priory founded in 1622.

There are dozens of places to eat, many not surprisingly specialising in the freshest of seafood. It’s definitely worth trying to get a table at one of the restaurants right on the beach along Le Remblai for the full Les Sables experience.

Catch a water ferry across the harbour entrance to La Chaume which is the old fishing quarter with narrow limewashed streets. Here you will find Prieure-St-Nicolas, a restored 11^th century church and former fortress directly overlooking the sea. Legend has it that the chapel was built by a sailor who survived a shipwreck and who dedicated it to St Nicolas, the patron saint of fishermen. There’s a walkway across the watery rocks to the lighthouse, and great views of the 15^th century Arundel Tower and Saint-Clair Castle, now home to the town’s Sea and Fishing Museum.

If you want to head out of the town, places to visit include L’Ile d’Olonne – an ancient salt workers village and the surrounding salt marshes dotted with windmills, historic churches and forest walks. Head around the bay to visit the Chateau de Talmont St Hilaire, built in 1020 it’s one of the oldest castles in France.

Les Sables d’Olonne has that happy combination of a rich history, beautiful architecture and a laid back, sunny, seaside Vendée vibe. With lots for the active to explore, it also provides a great chance to kick back, soak up the sun and unwind.

by Lucy Pitts, travel writer and editor of Sussex Exclusive