What to see and do in Vézelay, Burgundy

Discover what to see and do in Vézelay, one of the key starting points on the Santiago de Compostela pilgrim route. This lovely town in in the Yonne department of Burgundy has a rich spiritual history with a magnificent basilica as well as picturesque streets and hilltop views, writes Karen Tait.

The historic, pickled-in-the-past town is divine!

Some 12 centuries ago, a monk called Baudillon brought relics of Mary Magdalene to a hilltop Benedictine monastery in Burgundy. In 1058, Pope Stephen IX confirmed the authenticity of the relics, and the abbey, already a key starting point on the St-Jacques de Compostelle pilgrimage route, was put firmly on the map. The ensuing influx of pilgrims – including princes, kings and emperors, who came to worship the relics before setting off along the Way of St James or on various crusades – brought prosperity to the village.

In 1146 Bernard of Clairvaux (co-founder of the Knights Templar, later venerated as Saint Bernard) preached the Second Crusade here alongside Louis VII. In 1190, Richard the Lionheart and Philip II embarked on the Third Crusade from the basilica. Vézelay became prominent on the political and religious stage of Europe.

Today, the basilica – and indeed the entire village which is an officially listed Plus Beaux Village – is recognised by UNESCO for its historical and architectural significance. Holidaymakers mingle with pilgrims and locals, but the village remains surprisingly peaceful, even in high summer, especially away from the main street and abbey.

If you’re arriving by car, it’s best to park in the lower village and continue on foot. The village is strung alongside the main street, which winds up the hill to the basilica, lined with honey-coloured buildings while jewel-like hollyhocks bloom through cracks in the pavement. The view down the hill is surely one of the loveliest street views in Burgundy, if not the whole of France.

It’s pretty steep so you have the perfect excuse for a café stop and to browse the artisan shops selling handmade crafts and ceramics, and local specialities like honey, mustard, snails and wine. It won’t come as a surprise to hear that the village has inspired many artists, writers and philosophers, and you’ll discover several art galleries tucked away in picturesque corners.

Look out for shells set in the ground, the symbol of pilgrims on the Way of St James – you’ll find a starting marker for the route in front of the abbey.

ABBEY ROAD

As you crest the hill – known as the Colline Éternelle (eternal hill) – expect to have your breath taken away by the Sainte-Magdelena Basilica, a masterpiece of Romanesque architecture, which is visible for miles around. The white stone façade features several decorative elements including Christ blessing the evangelists as well as statues of the saints.

We have the 19^th-century French architect Viollet-le-Duc to thank for the remarkable condition of the basilica; it was restored under his guidance after it had fallen into disrepair, a result of the Hundred Years’ War, Religious Wars and a challenge over the authenticity of the relics. Additions from the 19^th century include the carving of the Last Judgement above the door, the original having been destroyed during the Revolution. You may notice there’s only one tower, but this isn’t a result of damage; the left one was simply never finished.

Inside the basilica, the nave is surprisingly light and airy, with a relatively simple design incorporating stripes of different coloured stone. While the nave is classically Romanesque, with massive columns and rounded arches, the choir was rebuilt in the Gothic style after a fire.

A magnificent 12th-century sculpted tympanum between the nave and the narthex (originally the west doors, but an extension was built to accommodate the swell of pilgrims) depicts Christ, arms outstretched, sending the Apostles out into the world to preach his word – symbolising the missionary spirit of the Crusades. The lintel shows the sinners of the world as not fully human – interpreted by Bernard de Clairville to represent infidel Turks and Moors, whose conversion was the prime aim of the Second Crusade.

If you’re anything like me, however, it will be the sculpted capitals at the top of the columns that will capture your attention – all the different faces and details are mesmerising. Considered to be some of the finest Romanesque carvings in Europe, they depict stories from the bible, moral lessons or scenes from saints’ lives, including the Temptation of Christ, Massacre of the Innocents and Flight into Egypt. The mythical beasts and symbolic creatures were my favourites though.

Dating from the Carolingian period (9th century), the crypt is one of the oldest parts of the basilica, and it’s here that the relics of Mary Magdalene are kept – all that now remains is her alleged finger, sealed in a golden casket. The crypt also has 12^th-century wall paintings.

The best time to visit the basilica is close to the summer solstice, from 20 to 30 June, when midday sun streaming through the southern windows falls in a precise line along the central nave, outlining a trail from one side to the other. This alignment is thought to symbolise divine illumination or the path of righteousness, and is an extraordinary example of medieval architectural symbolism and astronomy. Also look out for other light displays throughout the year, including on the winter solstice and at Easter.

A visitor centre offers insight into the spiritual and symbolic meaning of the basilica and its sculptures. Having finished your tour, don’t miss the terrace outside, where you’ll be treated to a wonderful view over the Cure valley and the Morvan hills.

GASTRONOMY AND GARDENS

The picturesque, cobbled streets, with their remarkably well-preserved medieval and Renaissance houses, many of which would have been home to winemakers, are well worth a wander. You can still see parts of the ramparts that surrounded the village, including the imposing Porte Neuve with its two towers. If you’ve ever watched La Grande Vadrouille, one of the most popular films in French cinema, you may recognise the scenery.

The village has a few museums including the Zervos modern art museum, home to works by Picasso, Miró and Giacometti, while the Viollet-le-Duc museum, in the abbey’s former chapter house, includes original sculptures and carvings replaced by the architect during the restoration. A stone’s throw from the basilica, the Maison Jules Roy – the magnificent home of the French writer – offers guided tours of the house and terraced gardens.

There are plenty of good restaurants serving wonderful local cuisine, think boeuf bourguignon or a plate of escargots accompanied by a hearty Burgundian red, or a fish dish washed down with a Vézelay AOC white wine. And some evenings there are classical music concerts in the basilica, which has superb acoustics. For an extra-special experience, why not time your visit to coincide with the Rencontres Musicales de Vézelay festival in August, four days of sacred music concerts from around the world.

Vézelay is at the edge of the Morvan Regional Natural Park, with its lakes, forest and hills, and is also surrounded by vineyards; the Chablis vineyards are a little further away, about a 40-minute drive. Many holidaymakers combine their visit to Vézelay with a wine-tasting experience at one of the local domains. The Vézelay vineyards grow Chardonnay grapes and are part of the Grand Auxerrois wine region.

Karen Tait is a freelance journalist and editor with a penchant for France!