At the heart of the old town of Auxerre in Burgundy, gleaming golden moon and sun dials take pride of place on an ornate 15th-century stone clocktower. For me, it’s the most eye-catching feature in this charming town, but it’s certainly not the only one. The historic centre is a treat for visitors, with such a rich mix of remarkably well-preserved Romanesque, Gothic and Renaissance buildings that it can feel like stepping back in time.
This ancient town offers a beguiling mix of history, the arts and indulgent cuisine says Karen Tait as she explores what to see and do.
What to see in Auxerre
Around 150km south of Paris, Auxerre was once an important stop on the trade route between the Mediterranean and the North Sea. Whether you approach by road, cycle path or water – the town sits on the River Yonne and Canal du Nivernais and is a cruising hub – it’s an impressive sight, with the cathedral and abbey towering above the town. The best views are from the Pont Paul Bert or pedestrianised bridge over the river.
The Gothic-style St-Etienne cathedral was built between the 11th and 16th centuries, with densely packed stone carvings and statues around its portal. Inside, there are stunning stained-glass windows – it’s hard to believe some of the vibrant blue and red glass dates from the 13th-century. In the 11th-century crypt, you can see an ancient fresco and remains of the earlier cathedral built on the same site.
The Abbey of St-Germain also has a notable crypt, with the oldest known church frescoes in France (9th century). You can visit the cloisters too, as well as a museum dedicated to archaeology and early Christian history. There are many other churches and chapels to visit in Auxerre including the St-Eusèbe church.
Medieval marvels
The stark beauty of the cathedral and churches contrasts with the brightly coloured, half-timbered medieval facades lining the pedestrianised streets and the buzz of the lively squares. There are plenty of places to take a break, perhaps for glass of local Chablis or a tasty alfresco lunch while people-watching.
If you want to try traditional local dishes, choose a rich boeuf bourguignon or coq au vin – or perhaps pôchouse, a freshwater fish stew. Snails are another Burgundian speciality (escargots de Bourgogne are cooked in the shell with parsley and garlic butter) while nearby village Tonnerre is famous for its gougères, cheesy choux pastry puffs. For fine dining, head to the two-Michelin-starred La Côte Saint-Jacques or the one-star l’Aspérule restaurant.
You can see all Auxerre’s sites of interest by simply following the brass arrows embedded in the ground. They’re part of the signposted route, ‘In the footsteps of Cadet Roussel’ – an 18th-century bailiff, Guillaume Roussel became the subject of a satirical song during the Revolution. Naturally, a statue of him features on the route. Guided tours are also available via the tourist office.
In the Middle Ages, protective walls were built around the town (in fact there had been walls as far back as Gallo-Roman times) and although these were destroyed in the 18th century, vestiges still remain, including a stretch by the river – look out for old watchtowers and city gates as you wander through the picturesque streets. The Tour d’Horloge (clocktower) once formed part of these walls. As you wander under the turreted arch, stop a moment to appreciate its unusual format, with two hands showing the usual hours (solar time) and the lunar hours with the moon phase.
A Ville d’Art et d’Histoire, Auxerre has several museums and galleries. Set within an 18th-century townhouse, the Musée Leblanc-Duvernoy features fine furniture, tapestries and ceramics, with period rooms arranged as they would have appeared in the 1700s and 1800s. There’s also a Natural History Museum, ideal for families.
The town has many parks and gardens too, with the most popular being the Parc de l’Arbre Sec, a botanical garden by the river. In June, it hosts Catalpa, a free three-day music festival. Many other concerts and events are held in the town, including the Festival Garçon, la Note!, in July and August, across many bars, cafés and squares.
Auxerre is at is liveliest on market days – head for Place de l’Arquebuse to buy fresh produce, artisan crafts and regional delicacies from cheese and charcuterie to honey, mustard and wine, or simply linger over a coffee and pastry absorbing the atmosphere. Shoppers will love all the boutiques and stores in the pedestrianised centre too, the ideal place to pick up a memento of your visit.
Nivernais Canal
When you’re ready to escape the busy streets, wander down to the river for a stroll or bike ride – or perhaps a boat tour. When the Nivernais Canal, which more or less follows the River Yonne, was completed at the end of the 18th century, it linked the Loire and Seine rivers and was a key route for shipping Burgundy wine to Paris.
Now, of course, it’s all about pleasure cruising, and Auxerre is the base for several hire companies and luxury hotel barges. You can rent electric boats or hop onto one of the tour boats which with guided commentary on the town and once bustling river industries.
The Quartier de la Marine neighbourhood is where locals made their living from the waterways, including boatmen, tanners and merchants – street names and signs are a reminder of this activity. Place St-Nicolas is now a busy restaurant square but a colourful statue of the patron saint of sailors and merchants still looks out from one of the facades.
Gateway to Burgundy
Auxerre is ideal for a weekend trip (under two hours by train or car from Paris), but equally great as a base to stay longer and discover more of the surrounding area. The town is famous for being the gateway to Burgundy from Paris, close to the capital but in the heart of the world-renowned wine region.
The wine village of Chablis is only a short drive away, where you can enjoy wine tastings at one of the many domaines and lunch in one of its excellent restaurants. Other pretty villages include Irancy (known for its red wines) and Noyers-sur-Serein, a Plus Beaux Village. Pontigny abbey, one of France’s greatest Cistercian abbeys, is only 15km away, and the Unesco-listed Vézelay Basilica is under an hour’s drive.
So, whether you’re looking for a deep dive into history or a relaxing gastronomic getaway, Auxerre has all that and more.
How to go to Auxerre
Direct trains from Paris take about 1.5 hours; by car, it’s about two hours (150km) from Paris via the A6 motorway; or around five hours (450km) from Calais; Paris-Orly is the nearest airport, about 160km away
Karen Tait is a freelance journalist and editor with a penchant for France!
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