From Michelin stars to Baroque masterpieces, this Alpine town is a not just a skier’s paradise – it offers much more says Lucy Pitts.
Saint-Gervais-les-Bains is an authentic Alpine town with a bustling community. The village is in the Haute-Savoie department, about an hour from Geneva, west of the well-known resort of Chamonix and under the benevolently watchful eye of Mont Blanc, the highest mountain in western Europe. Great for year-round visits, it’s less blingy than some of its neighbours.
The skiing at Saint-Gervais-les-Bains
As a French Alpine village, it’s an obvious destination for skiers. From Saint-Gervais centre, it’s a short (and free) bus ride to the brand-new cable car up to the mountains and the small village of Le Bettex. It’s there that you’ll find the local ski school and 455 km of skiing available on your ski pass.
The skiing is a great mix of pistes in two different areas – Evasion Mont-Blanc has 400km of ski slopes running in all directions, with 110 ski lifts from one summit to the next. 1022 snow makers ensure perfect conditions all season long. And Les Houches Saint-Gervais has 55km of slopes and offers the most magnificent panoramic views over the majestic Mont-Blanc Mountain, plus 15 ski lifts and artificial snow providers for perfect snow cover. You’ll find challenging slopes and red runs to keep even the most experienced skiers happy. And for the less able skier, there are green and blue runs a-plenty.
For more information about skiing in Saint-Gervais-les-Bains:
Lift passes: ski-saintgervais.com
Ski school: ski-school-saint-gervais.co.uk
Where to eat on the slopes
Of course, there are plenty of places to eat and drink on the mountains. Melted-cheese fantasy alpine dishes like tartiflette and raclette are a must. One place you really have to try is Le Boitet. It has fabulous views from the terrace and is owned and run by three Michelin star chef Emmanuel Renaut whose approach is simple cooking done well, using local and seasonal ingredients – the result is truly scrumptious.
His La Croûte aux Fromage de nos Montagnes, Oignons and Champignons – which is chunky bread baked in local cheese, onions and one of Renaut’s favourite ingredients – local wild mushrooms, is an absolute stunner. It’s not for those with a light appetite but you’re in the mountains and the calories you burn doing multiple activities alleviates any guilt. Wash it down with a sugar lump soaked in the local raspberry flavoured liquor which has enough poke to propel you back out onto the slopes.
What to see and do in Saint-Gervais-les-Bains
The town has invested wisely in sustainability and infrastructure and the locals have a tangible sense of pride in their community and their surroundings. There are the usual ski shops, but you’ll also find pottery, art and a couple of really good delis if you want to buy local produce.
Look out for the street art, including a brightly coloured wall known as ‘Die Cast’ painted in 2018, and a commemorative painting of 1921, when François Durafour flew a Caudron G.3 aircraft from Lausanne, landing on the summit of Dôme du Goûter (at an altitude of 4,331 metres) next to Mont Blanc before returning to base. He was the first pilot to land and take-off with an aircraft at such a high altitude and the first to land on and take-off from snow in that type of plane.
Finally, include a visit to the church in the village centre. It’s late 17th century and replaced an earlier Medieval one. It’s built in Baroque style with nine modern stained-glass windows designed by Korean artist Kim En Joong in 2016. If you’re lucky, you might catch one of the free musical recitals that are held here.
Where to stay: The family-run Coeur des Neiges in the centre of Saint-Gervais, once a farm building, has been a hotel for the last 100 years.
Other activities and things to do in the area
Talking of churches, make sure you catch one of the free buses to the lovely village of Saint-Nicolas de Véroce, about 7km away. It’s well worth visiting for several reasons including the early 18th century Baroque masterpiece with its brilliantly painted vaulted ceiling in blue and gold, the colours of Saint-Nicolas, and the carved wooden altarpieces and colourful interior are magnificent. There is also a small museum next door.
There are excellent guided snowshoe hiking and winter walking routes as well as plenty of other activities. Find out more at: guides-mont-blanc.com
For a five-star experience, head to Armancette, a spectacularly gorgeous five-star hotel and spa which has two restaurants. At the Bistrot du Mont Joly – try the pâté en croute made with wild boar, followed by a Savoyard fondue for a taste of the mountains. Their gourmet restaurant, La Table d’Armante is a gastronomic tour de force. There’s also a delicious tearoom and bakery.
Head to nearby Le Fayet to take the Mont-Blanc tram to Bellevue at a height of 1,800 metres. The tramway has been in use since 1909 and is the highest rack and pinion railway in France! The views on the journey and from the top are jaw dropping.
Make a stop at Plan B in the village of Le Fayet. It has a bit of a Euro-Pop style going on and serves dishes like crunchy cauliflower with smoked yogurt and chimichurri and Angus burgers made with alpine Reblochon cheese.
A unique Thermal Spa
Saint Gervais is the only ski resort in France which also has a thermal spa and the brand new and sustainable waste-water powered lift Ascenseur des Thermes (the first of its kind in France) will take you there from the village. A half day visit at the spa is perfect to soothe any aching muscles. The mountain water is 6,000 years old and rich in sulphur and minerals. There are saunas, steam baths, herbal tea room, bubbly pools outside in the cold and exotic rain forest experiences. The spa is popular for both medical and wellbeing treatments.
How to get there: Trains from Paris to Saint-Gervais-les-Bains take from 4 h 53m. The new Le Valléen gondola is right next to the station and takes you up to the village. There is also free parking in Saint-Gervais and a great local bus service which is also free. The nearest airport is Geneva with taxi transfers approximately 1 hour.
Information: The tourist office is in the centre of the village and is an excellent resource: L’Office de Tourisme | Saint-Gervais Mont-Blanc
by Lucy Pitts, travel writer and editor of Sussex Exclusive
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