Unless you’re teetotal you can’t visit Bordeaux without a visit to its world famous wineries. Actually strike that, even if you are teetotal you should visit the vineyards, because, peppered with enchanting villages, medieval towns and several thousand chateaux, you don’t have to drink the wine to appreciate the beauty of the this lush green area that surrounds the city.
There are six essential wine-growing regions around Bordeaux: Bordeaux, Médoc, Graves and Sauternes, Blaye and Bourg, Saint-Emilion Pomerol and Fronsac, and Entre-Deux-Mers. Each have their own history, charm, and of course wine that’s particular to the area.
The vineyards are easy to visit by car, but if you’re not keen to drive and want to enjoy that tasting without worry, there are several tours available from the Bordeaux Tourist office and companies like Ophorus Tours.
The vineyards of Bordeaux are the largest fine-wine vineyards in the world and thousands of winegrowers open up their vineyards for wine tastings, wine courses and numerous cultural and gourmet discoveries. Here are just some of the best Bordeaux wineries tours and stays – where you can experience exquisite grape-inspired spa treatments, drink wine on a turntable bar (yes, really), take a cookery workshop and even stay in a treehouse.
Saint-Émilion
Bordeaux isn’t just a city – it’s a style of wine too, and some of the most famous wines of the area (and the world) come from around the perched village of Saint-Émilion, a must visit if you’re in Bordeaux (less than an hour from the city centre by car/train). Named after the Saint who settled here in the 8th century, this village of hilly cobbled streets, wine stores and restaurants, is a photographer’s dream, luring some 950,000 visitors a year (just 226 permanent inhabitants).
Saint-Émilion is surrounded by vineyards and many of the great wine making estates of this area are now changing with the times and offering public visits for tastings, cooking lessons, restaurants – and the most amazing B&B and hotels.
Best Bordeaux Wineries Tours and Stays
Château de Ferrand
Château de Ferrand, just 5km from Saint-Emilon, was built in 1702. It was bought by a household name in 1978 – Baron Bich – of BIC pen fame (is there anyone in the world who hasn’t got a BIC pen?!). This place is seriously glamorous and includes a BIC pen art collection. It also has a turntable wine bar – yes, really. You could be standing at the bar sipping one of their truly outstanding wines on a fabulous tasting tour, while the bar rotates to give you a different view. If Doctor Who was a wine maker there’s no doubt this would be his dream tasting room.
You can book into their gorgeous B&B in the grand château – think soft furnishings, Dior-like colours, top chef catering, and all in the middle of the grand cru classé vineyards.
Visitors are welcome to the chateau with a raft of superb offers from a wine and gourmet tasting to a variety of private tours with lunch – reserve in advance at chateaudeferrand.com
Château Fleur de Lisse
Château Fleur de Lisse, also just a few kilometres from Saint-Émilion offers several incredibly good value tours (from 3 vintage wines, to wine and chocolate pairings and gourmet plates). The cellars are spectacular and include a unique ageing cellar featuring several giant amphorae designed by artist Barthélémy Toguo. There’s also a lovely terrace area overlooking the vineyards – perfect for sunny day tastings.
The. Chateau also offers cooking courses with Chef Stéphanie Bottreau. Here you’ll learn the art of classic French cuisine and create a three-course lunch (my husband was blown away by my French peas when I got home!) which you’ll enjoy paired with spectacular wines from the estate in the chateau dining room or on the terrace in the sunshine amongst the vines. Their 5-bedroom Château l’Etampe gite, with pool, billiards room and wine cellar etc is in the heart of the vines, just 3km from Saint Emilion.
Find out more and book a workshop, wine tasting or cookery course at: en.vignoblesjade.com
Château de Léognan
In the Graves wine growing area, the Château de Léognan wine estate welcomes visitors offers rooms and suites in a gorgeous 19th century hotel with elegant rooms, or stay in luxury treehouse lodges with views over the forest and surrounding countryside for a true back to nature experience. They also off yurt spa experiences. There is an informal but excellent restaurant – it’s not showy, just great food and a really welcoming atmosphere, plus a terrific treetop bar. This is a place to relax, rejuvenate and revitalise and be at one with nature, as at night birds sing as they go to sleep followed by owls hooting gently, and the air is filled with the scent of flowers.
Book your stay or table at the restaurant at: chateauleognan.com
Château Smith Haut Lafitte
Staying in the Graves wine producing area – Château Smith Haut Lafitte, a Grand Cru Classé of Graves, is one of the most spectacular wineries I’ve ever visited. We’re talking top of the range here. Their tours include the chance to step into the shoes of a wine maker, take part in the work of the vineyard or cellars, one of which is so regal as to make you speechless, and learn about viticulture and wine making methods. Tasting tours include a caviar and wine workshop and masterclass with a private cellar tour. They also have their own private cooperage on site, creating bespoke barrels for the precious wine, one of only two chateaux in the area to do so. I met up with the owner, Daniel Cathiard, at the winery and he told me that the late Queen Elizabeth II visited here with French President Macron – and learned about the art of barrel making. Apparently, a pot of tea was produced for her, she promptly dropped the lid and broke it and when offered another pot is alleged to have opted for Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte wine instead!
The vineyards, first planted in 1365, are filled with sculptures, a giant hare seems to leap along the rows of Cabernets, a majestic stag stands atop a giant head. “If there’s any money left at the end of the year” says Monsieur Cathiard, ” We spend it on sculptures.”
Book your tour at smith-haute-lafitte.com
Les Sources de Caudalie
Tucked into the vineyards, Les Sources de Caudalie hotel and spa is run by Monsieur Cathiard’s daughter and her husband. If you think that name ring’s a bell – Caudalie’s vine inspired beauty and skin products are a household name in France and sold internationally.
The 5* Les Source de Caudalie hotel is wonderfully luxurious, embracing rustic charm and maximum comfort with prestige suites and heavenly rooms, plus half a dozen private lodges in the groundsm including the stunning L’Ile aux Oiseaux, the bird island house (where Beyonce and JayZ stayed when they visited Bordeaux.
It’s not remotely stuffy here, people wander about in robes ready for their spa treatments or just too laid back after to change. Expect to be cossetted and coddled to the Nth degree at the discrete and chic spa. The only stress you will experience is when to schedule your spa treatment with vinotherapists who use vine and grape derived concoctions, or maybe to choose which superb restaurant to dine at, or which pool to swim in!
There are three restaurants, the 2 Michelin-starred La Grand’Vigne, La Table du Lavoir which is elevated bistro dining, wine bar delicatessen ROUGE and wine bar The French Paradox. Even if you’re not staying at the hotel you can indulge at the restaurants.
It’s a little bit of paradise.
Find out more details at sources-hotels.com
Tourist office info: saint-emilion-tourisme.com; bordeaux-tourism.co.uk
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