Floating into the heart of Narbonne

Narbonne was in Roman times an important port as well as an army base and makes for a fabulous visit says Antoinette Karsten as she shares her experience of sailing along the canal into the city.

All roads lead to Rome

Narbonne is a major city with fast train lines to Provence, Paris and Barcelona. And it has the Canal du Midi, or more precisely the Canal de la Robine, which allows modern day boaters like us to float our boats into the beautiful heart of town.

But it’s historic past is evident. If you like tunnels and caves, a visit to L’Horreum is a must. An extensive underground tunnel system of granaries and cellars had survived the centuries, and in the crypts of churches you can see where the burial grounds of Roman citizens overlapped with those of the earliest Christians.

A leftover section of the Roman Via Domitia which connected Italy to Spain and was the first Roman road in ancient Gaul, is now built up with boutiques and apartments. Part of it crosses the canal and the bridge is one of only two inhabited bridges in France.

We found a lovely mooring spot right in the centre historique, under shady trees, surrounded by beautiful mansions with towers and Mansard roofs, vibrant restaurants and the wonderful gourmet market Les Halles just a stone’s throw away. There is an ATM, a bus stop, recycling bins and a laverie nearby for the practicalities of boat travel, and even more important, some excellent boulangeries for your morning croissant and daily baguette. The port people were friendly and the fees reasonable.

A morning on the town square

It’s lovely to be in the streets when the businesses open in the mornings, roller-doors rattle up and sidewalk signs, tables and wares are carried outside. Café umbrellas are unfolded and chairs unpacked.

There’s something incredibly grounding about the pace of canal life. We positioned ourselves for a leisurely morning on the place outside the Palais Vieux, with a café Viennois and a pastry, and no intentions of rushing. From here one can just sit and enjoy the elegant buildings surrounding the square, explore the medieval Palace of the Archbishops, the incredible cathedral with cloisters and walled gardens, and the charming shopping alleyways.

Come back for lunch and a beer and stay until it is time for an aperitif when a different buzz infuses the tree-lined promenade along the river. Restaurants and bistros turn on strings of lights and the after-work crowd brings a relaxed energy. There is so much to choose from: platters with wonderful cheeses and charcuterie, the famed French favourite moules frites with a variety of sauce options, and aligot, a creamy, hearty, feel-good dish of melted cheese, cream and mashed potatoes.

On Sunday mornings there is a bustling market outside Les Halles with all kinds of hand-made items, regional produce and a wonderful book stall. A huge bronze rooster proudly tops a pillar, the iconic French symbol of courage and bravery. From here, the cathedral across the water creates a beautiful composition with the tree-lined promenade, canal and old buildings of the area. It’s a beautiful city. Towers peek above the rooflines, there are charming churches, small squares with shady parks and brass lion drinking fountains, and little cafés.

Narbonne tips for general visitors and boaters

On arrival, sail through the city to see what moorings are available. The outskirts are lined with long stay boats, but you may be lucky and find a spot right in the centre of town.

Free hop on/hop off buses, La Citadine, travel across the city centre every ten minutes.

Day trips to the coast: it is an easy 30 minute bus ride to the beaches. Ask for travel advice from the Tourist Office

Public transport frequency reduces drastically on Saturday afternoons and may not run at all on Sundays, so plan ahead.

The staff at the Capitainerie are friendly, easy going and helpful. It was easy to extend our stay (mid-June)

Antoinette Karsten explores France with her husband Herman on their canal boat every summer and writes about it in The Kookaburra Diaries